Chefknivestogo Forums

Im not currently interested in purchasing another atoma stone as they are quite expensive. Im mainly trying to find out if the strange feedback sounds that im getting when using the stones is from over/under angling, a break in issue, or if thats just how they are given that the diamond are clustere...

A while back I posted here asking about getting a new diamond stone and atoma vs DMT. atoma came highly recommended over DMT despite the significantly higher price. So after having had them for a few months and having done some sharpening and lapping with them I wanted to share my thoughts and ask a...

The tear out stuff is something I believe is overstated and overthought. I'm sure there is truth to it but all the hullabaloo gives me a headache. So I ignore it and sharpen the darn knife. That being said having the 600 and 1200 diamond plate, presuming Atoma, couldn't hurt. Very versatile items. ...

Actually thats the video that inspired me to ask this question. Since I dont have any high grit diamond stones I was wondering how much of an issue the carbide tear out is. He only finished the knife on a spyderco ultra fine. Thats also why im trying to figure out if its worth getting some higher gr...

So in terms of grit size for japanese waterstones in general what grit level would be relatively safe from carbide tear out? Im assuming that carbides being 45-50 is not the norm. Is a 1200 grit waterstone going to have issues with carbides falling out of the knives? And if I go diamond like with DM...

OK What would be a good grit to go to stop at before I run into the carbide removal issue? If I dont have high grit cbn or diamond stuff?

Because these steels have a lot of wear resistance they tend to do best with a very Coarse edge that is followed by a quick polish. When it comes to sharpening it's actually the fine grits that will have the most issue. Coarse grits of nearly any abrasive will grind through tough alloy steels becau...

Do you have a grit level of diamond stone that you would reccomend going to before it stops being helpful anymore? and can you do finish work on a non diamond stone? As in do all the main grinding on a diamond stone but finish with a ceramic like the spyderco ultra fine? Also is a strop with green c...

I recently saw a video talking about sharpening really high carbide steels on alumina based stones, and they suggested that since alumina is softer than tungsten carbide or molybdenum carbide (not sure which) that sharpening a knife with a high amount of carbides can result in the tearing out of car...

My parents have stainless knives that sharpen very easily, but lose their edge after a couple cuts. So frustrating to sharpen all their knives and come back two weeks later and find them all dull. My parents also have relatively soft stainless knives. However I know why they go dull so fast. My dad...

The answers im seeing here pretty much confirm what I was thinking, as I have plenty of stainless steel knives that ive put super sharp edges on vg10 440c cpm20cv mystery steel on my parents old henchels knives from long ago when my mom was in college super mystery knives from a thrift store etc. Al...

Ive come across videos and seen comments online to the effect of "enjoy the edge on that stainless steel knife, its the last one your ever going to have on it" or "ugh that knife is made of stainless steel? well thats going to be almost impossible to sharpen." Is there something ...

I soaked the king s1 and the king combo in soapy water for a few hours and then lapped them more. There was indeed more oil contamination hiding below the surface. The stone seems to be better now its not loading up as much and isnt getting the rough bumpy feeling from weird load up spots as they ar...

I would eliminate the 'nagura' - actually a cleaning stone from your setup entirely. Do you have another plate ? Sometimes the nickel in the diamond plate becomes heavily oxidized and gets on the stone. Try flattening a few times using sandpaper (120 grit or so ) Try soaking the stones individually...

1. Yes im using water, Ive tried both "splash and go" ie just tossing some water on it as well as soaking it for almost an hour (the naniwa) the king Ive soaked for 20 minutes and also tried just splashing water on it. Niether of these are allowed to get particularly dry while sharpening. ...

The green brick isn't a particularly porous stone so its takes a bit of a soak for it to come around. If its a brand new stone lap it down a millimeter or two. Should smooth out after that. Ive lapped it a few times though I dont know if ive actually removed a full milimeter or two if material. the...

There's a chance what you are using as a nagura is introducing coarser mud onto your higher grit surface. For instance, if the nagura is a 1k and used on a 6k, you will have 1 and 6k mud as you are sharpening, what you are feeling is the coarser parts. What are you using as a nagura? I actually don...

I recently bought a naniwa green brick, and its great but ive noticed some issues with it compared to the videos ive seen of the stone on youtube. The stone does not get dark as soon as water it splashed on it instead I have to soak mine for a few minute before it darkens and it seems somewhat light...