New Knife Sharpening Impressions
New Knife Sharpening Impressions
I've added a number of knives to the block over the past 3 weeks or so, and while I haven't put them through enough use to warrant a full review or thorough initial impression, I have had the opportunity to sharpen all of them. As I like to have more familiar knives with comparably fresh edges to serve as benchmarks against which to measure the performance and other characteristics of the rookies, I also put a number of my legacy knives through a full progression on the stones. In all, I sharpened 14 knives which, for those use an EP will know, means a LOT of time on the jig. Anyway, below is a list of the knives sharpened and associated stones followed by key-takeaways:
Recently Added
Konosuke MM B2 Gyutos (240mm & 210mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto
Mizuno Tanrenjo Akidata Honyaki B2 Gyuto (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto, Yaginoshima Asagi
Butch Harner XHP Nakiri (175mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto, Meara
Ikeda Suminagashi B1 Gyuto (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Monzen Aoto, Meara
Doi B2 Gyuto (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto
Legacy Knives Sharpened
Konosuke Fujiyama W1 Gyuto (270mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Meara
Konosuke Fujiyama B2 Gyuto/Funayuki (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto
Konosuke Fujiyama B2 Petty (180mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto
Konosuke Fujiyama Togo Geigo (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto, Yaginoshima Asagi
Konosuke Shiraki Honyaki B2 Gyuto (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto Yaginoshima Asagi
Shigefusa Kasumi Sujihiki (270mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto
Gesshin Kagekiyo B1 Gyuto (270mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto
Kiyoshi Kato W2 Gyuto (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Monzen Aoto, Meara
Takeaways
The first thing that will stand out to most is the use of the Shapton Pro 1.5K at the start of every progression (credit to Joe Salem for pushing this awesome stone to me a few years ago). This stone appeals to me as a starter in most cases as it cuts incredibly fast for the grit, sets up the next stone in the progression very well, won't remove too much steel (which is very, very important to me on higher end knives) and, depending upon the use of the knife, can stand alone as a single stone with only a strop.
Anyway, there's always a lot of guess work when deciding on which stones to use after the first with new knives. While I can lean on experience with various steels, and to some extent various smiths treatment of a given steel, every knife tends to respond differently and it can take a few tries to find the right combo (which could mean well over a year depending upon the frequency of use and edge retention). I don't always get it right and if I think the edge could be improved with a different combo of stones I'll make not of it.
Konosuke MM: Very easy to set an edge, though didn't take to the Aono's as well as some of the other B2 knives here. Edge quality is excellent, though think I could have gotten more out of it with a 3 step progression using a Monzen as an intermediary.
Mizuni Honyaki: Surprisingly easy on the stones (right in-line with my Kono Shiraki Honyaki) and takes a refined edge early on in the progression. The Yaginoshima seemed like a bit of overkill on this edge though as, while sharp, feels a little sterile. Think a Meara would have been a better choice for this knife
Harner Nakiri: I'm generally not a fan of PM/tool steels at all, but this is a fairly well done treatment. Unlike other PM knives, I never got the sense that the edge was grainy as the quality at every point in the progression stacked up admirably with carbons. I was very optimistic after the knife responded very well and quickly to the Shapton, but the blades tool-steel traits showed up in full force once I moved to the more refined stones. Unsurprising, it took a ridiculous amount of time to reach the edge of the edge with the Aono and Meara. That said, the resulting edge quality is really fantastic. A refined, silky bite that I did not expect.
Ikeda B1: Out of the new crop, the Ikeda was the quickest to set an edge and refine through the Aono. I initially stopped after the Aono as the edge was, in Masshole parliance "wicked shaahp". But much like the Kagekiyo, after later inspection, I felt like it could use an additional stone so finished and stropped it with a Meara. B1 is generally turning out to be much toothier than B2 and requires an extra level finish. However, like this Ikeda, I'm finding if the extra effort is put in the resulting edge is just obscene. Hits an amazing balance b/w refinement and aggression.
Doi B2: Took longer than expected on the Shapton and lagged the other new-comers in that regard. Indeed, it took about as long to finish with an Aono as other knives did with a Meara or Yaginoshima. That said, the resulting edge at Aono level of finish was stellar.
Other Notes
Kono Fuji W1 is, absolutely in a class of its own. Burr generation is practically instantaneous on the 1.5K and was able to jump straight to a Meara (~7K grit) which is a massive leap. Still, took less time than other knives through an aoto progression. Edge is just silly good. Nothing came close. I'd say the Shig was probably the runner up in terms of ease of sharpening/resulting edge quality out of the most recent group.
As noted above, I'm finding B1 needs more refinements than B2 or or W1 as a generality.
Can't remember what the last stone combo I used on my 240 Kato was, but really like the quality of edge from this progression. Also, less demanding on stones than I remember.
Recently Added
Konosuke MM B2 Gyutos (240mm & 210mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto
Mizuno Tanrenjo Akidata Honyaki B2 Gyuto (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto, Yaginoshima Asagi
Butch Harner XHP Nakiri (175mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto, Meara
Ikeda Suminagashi B1 Gyuto (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Monzen Aoto, Meara
Doi B2 Gyuto (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto
Legacy Knives Sharpened
Konosuke Fujiyama W1 Gyuto (270mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Meara
Konosuke Fujiyama B2 Gyuto/Funayuki (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto
Konosuke Fujiyama B2 Petty (180mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto
Konosuke Fujiyama Togo Geigo (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto, Yaginoshima Asagi
Konosuke Shiraki Honyaki B2 Gyuto (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto Yaginoshima Asagi
Shigefusa Kasumi Sujihiki (270mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto
Gesshin Kagekiyo B1 Gyuto (270mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Aono Aoto
Kiyoshi Kato W2 Gyuto (240mm) - Shapton Pro 1.5K, Monzen Aoto, Meara
Takeaways
The first thing that will stand out to most is the use of the Shapton Pro 1.5K at the start of every progression (credit to Joe Salem for pushing this awesome stone to me a few years ago). This stone appeals to me as a starter in most cases as it cuts incredibly fast for the grit, sets up the next stone in the progression very well, won't remove too much steel (which is very, very important to me on higher end knives) and, depending upon the use of the knife, can stand alone as a single stone with only a strop.
Anyway, there's always a lot of guess work when deciding on which stones to use after the first with new knives. While I can lean on experience with various steels, and to some extent various smiths treatment of a given steel, every knife tends to respond differently and it can take a few tries to find the right combo (which could mean well over a year depending upon the frequency of use and edge retention). I don't always get it right and if I think the edge could be improved with a different combo of stones I'll make not of it.
Konosuke MM: Very easy to set an edge, though didn't take to the Aono's as well as some of the other B2 knives here. Edge quality is excellent, though think I could have gotten more out of it with a 3 step progression using a Monzen as an intermediary.
Mizuni Honyaki: Surprisingly easy on the stones (right in-line with my Kono Shiraki Honyaki) and takes a refined edge early on in the progression. The Yaginoshima seemed like a bit of overkill on this edge though as, while sharp, feels a little sterile. Think a Meara would have been a better choice for this knife
Harner Nakiri: I'm generally not a fan of PM/tool steels at all, but this is a fairly well done treatment. Unlike other PM knives, I never got the sense that the edge was grainy as the quality at every point in the progression stacked up admirably with carbons. I was very optimistic after the knife responded very well and quickly to the Shapton, but the blades tool-steel traits showed up in full force once I moved to the more refined stones. Unsurprising, it took a ridiculous amount of time to reach the edge of the edge with the Aono and Meara. That said, the resulting edge quality is really fantastic. A refined, silky bite that I did not expect.
Ikeda B1: Out of the new crop, the Ikeda was the quickest to set an edge and refine through the Aono. I initially stopped after the Aono as the edge was, in Masshole parliance "wicked shaahp". But much like the Kagekiyo, after later inspection, I felt like it could use an additional stone so finished and stropped it with a Meara. B1 is generally turning out to be much toothier than B2 and requires an extra level finish. However, like this Ikeda, I'm finding if the extra effort is put in the resulting edge is just obscene. Hits an amazing balance b/w refinement and aggression.
Doi B2: Took longer than expected on the Shapton and lagged the other new-comers in that regard. Indeed, it took about as long to finish with an Aono as other knives did with a Meara or Yaginoshima. That said, the resulting edge at Aono level of finish was stellar.
Other Notes
Kono Fuji W1 is, absolutely in a class of its own. Burr generation is practically instantaneous on the 1.5K and was able to jump straight to a Meara (~7K grit) which is a massive leap. Still, took less time than other knives through an aoto progression. Edge is just silly good. Nothing came close. I'd say the Shig was probably the runner up in terms of ease of sharpening/resulting edge quality out of the most recent group.
As noted above, I'm finding B1 needs more refinements than B2 or or W1 as a generality.
Can't remember what the last stone combo I used on my 240 Kato was, but really like the quality of edge from this progression. Also, less demanding on stones than I remember.
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Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
So... Masshole parliance "wicked shaahp”
does this mean you live /originate in the greater Boston area?
does this mean you live /originate in the greater Boston area?
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Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
Thanks, Chip. What I love about this write-up is that it conveys that incredible "instantaneous confidence" one gets when actually dealing with so many high-caliber knives back-to-back. I don't even think most professionals with large collections get this pleasure regularly. It is easy for all of us to forget the difference between confirmational experiences and open-minded ones.
What I mean by that is this: I can imagine that the subtle differences between each treatment began to really stand out in "realistic" ways rather than merely "stereotypical" ones. You must start to really feel what is there rather than only feeling what you "expect" to be there. Starting every progression with the same stone - and, not only that, but a fairly high-grit stone with transparent feedback that is actually at a much higher level of "grain" than the grit would suggest - makes me think of playing billiards. It is like the balls and table stay the same, and you were able to try out different cues throughout an epic "Huster" session. Round after round, the differences in steel must have really shown through as you went along, just like you begin to feel not only the different weight and balance, but also the different effects of warp and lacquer on each cue stick in your hand.
And, now that hell has frozen over, I can say it: I actually think the jig may have helped in all of this, too. Without the burden of holding an angle and with an easier method of controlling pressure, you were probably even more sensitive to feedback at the granular level.
It hadn't really occurred to me that this might be a great way of discussing these knives. In some ways, however, I actually find this to be quite exciting and usually revealing of something we struggle to discuss "comparatively" at times, even if you never mention cutting food or the character of the grind.
Finally, I LOVE what you say about Blue #1. I only have one knife in this steel, but it was after trying 2-3 others. I am obsessed with B1. And yes, it is because I am obsessed with bite. I still haven't figured out quite how to control the B1 in my Kono Fujiyama, but I remain confident that this steel has the heart of a dragon. If W1 is the essence of what we all imagine carbon to be (who needs retention when you can sharpen a knife by blowing on it?), then B1 is the essence of a battle axe: it seems like it will tear through armour with a bad edge for the duration of any fight, and a good edge makes you wonder if you can safely set the weapon down anywhere...at any time...without it somehow accidentally mauling something like your own leg.
Also, you have a lot of knives. Thanks for sharing!
What I mean by that is this: I can imagine that the subtle differences between each treatment began to really stand out in "realistic" ways rather than merely "stereotypical" ones. You must start to really feel what is there rather than only feeling what you "expect" to be there. Starting every progression with the same stone - and, not only that, but a fairly high-grit stone with transparent feedback that is actually at a much higher level of "grain" than the grit would suggest - makes me think of playing billiards. It is like the balls and table stay the same, and you were able to try out different cues throughout an epic "Huster" session. Round after round, the differences in steel must have really shown through as you went along, just like you begin to feel not only the different weight and balance, but also the different effects of warp and lacquer on each cue stick in your hand.
And, now that hell has frozen over, I can say it: I actually think the jig may have helped in all of this, too. Without the burden of holding an angle and with an easier method of controlling pressure, you were probably even more sensitive to feedback at the granular level.
It hadn't really occurred to me that this might be a great way of discussing these knives. In some ways, however, I actually find this to be quite exciting and usually revealing of something we struggle to discuss "comparatively" at times, even if you never mention cutting food or the character of the grind.
Finally, I LOVE what you say about Blue #1. I only have one knife in this steel, but it was after trying 2-3 others. I am obsessed with B1. And yes, it is because I am obsessed with bite. I still haven't figured out quite how to control the B1 in my Kono Fujiyama, but I remain confident that this steel has the heart of a dragon. If W1 is the essence of what we all imagine carbon to be (who needs retention when you can sharpen a knife by blowing on it?), then B1 is the essence of a battle axe: it seems like it will tear through armour with a bad edge for the duration of any fight, and a good edge makes you wonder if you can safely set the weapon down anywhere...at any time...without it somehow accidentally mauling something like your own leg.
Also, you have a lot of knives. Thanks for sharing!
~J
Comments: I'm short, a home cook, prefer lighter, thinner blades, and have tried dozens of brands over the years.
Comments: I'm short, a home cook, prefer lighter, thinner blades, and have tried dozens of brands over the years.
Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
I certainly could have, but have found that going with the highest level of polish doesn't always result in the best edge for the knife/task and I try to judge what stone/refinement an edge should be finished at based upon how it responds to stones in the middle of a progression. Take the Mizuno Honyaki for instance; I took the knife through a Yaginoshima, but wasn't particularly thrilled with the outcome. Just too sterile and overpolished. Wasn't the right finish for the steel given the use for me. That said, other knives have a fantastic edge taken up that high in refinement. It's all subjective and completely dependent upon what stones you have and how the steel responds
Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
Joe, your definitely right about the jig. There are some tricky manual aspects if one is trying to keep the edge bevel somewhat close to grind, and moving the edge across the intersect, but far less involvement than freehand which means more awareness of feedback from the stones. Also, b/c less surface area is being contacted, it takes much longer to sharpen on jig, providing more opportunity to analyze. Also makes one accutely aware of the relative response to certain stones each knife has from time-spent perspective.
As you suggest, sharpening is only one factor in the evaluation of the quality of a knife's steel and, I suspect, well done B1 will be an excellent steel when considered holistically. The iterations I've used do sharpen easily at each point of progression, but also require an additional level of refinement on the stones to hit that sweet spot. Once there though, the edge is just freakish. I suspect retention and performance across tasks is going to be damn impressive
As you suggest, sharpening is only one factor in the evaluation of the quality of a knife's steel and, I suspect, well done B1 will be an excellent steel when considered holistically. The iterations I've used do sharpen easily at each point of progression, but also require an additional level of refinement on the stones to hit that sweet spot. Once there though, the edge is just freakish. I suspect retention and performance across tasks is going to be damn impressive
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Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
I will give you jig guys credit. I think it is actually harder to get a great edge with something like an edge pro than it is freehand. Funny as most people say the opposite. However, I think that using a jig can easily give you a passable edge but to truly make it great it seems more involved as a few of you have pointed out more than once. I hated my edge pro, hated it with a passion!
That said, thank you for this write up as it was a very informative and enjoyable read.
That said, thank you for this write up as it was a very informative and enjoyable read.
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Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
I don't think I could work a jig well either, Kit. I think it requires a different kind of patience and different goals than freehand. I'm always amazed with the cosmetics of jig edges, though, especially on pocket knives and such. Since I often like to vary the style of the edge quickly, and since I often adjust the angle across the edge for various reasons, I don't think I'd ever want to invest in a jig. But when I read posts like the OP, I see the potential in all sorts of ways. I honestly feel like the post above is probably better due to the use of a jig, as it is easy to imagine a lot more variables and a lot more "stereotypical" impressions on freehand stones.
I still regret that Chip and I never got together for our Kono review, as an important part of that was going to be comparing edges finished on jigs and freehand across our various knives!
I still regret that Chip and I never got together for our Kono review, as an important part of that was going to be comparing edges finished on jigs and freehand across our various knives!
~J
Comments: I'm short, a home cook, prefer lighter, thinner blades, and have tried dozens of brands over the years.
Comments: I'm short, a home cook, prefer lighter, thinner blades, and have tried dozens of brands over the years.
Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
I think it is harder using an EP as well. One thing to remember is the need to compensate for the different stone thicknesses in the EP progression, even from start to finish on a soft stone like Monzen. Not compensating can result in a rounded edge at higher grits which can also happen freehand if too much pressure is applied. It is also more painstaking to consistently hydrate with upside down stones.
I do agree with some blades finishing better at a lower grit such as Mizuno; their Tenrenjo series finish well at 5-6k as do Shigefusa blades but those Sakai blades really sing at high levels of refinement for most product a gyuto is used for.
I do agree with some blades finishing better at a lower grit such as Mizuno; their Tenrenjo series finish well at 5-6k as do Shigefusa blades but those Sakai blades really sing at high levels of refinement for most product a gyuto is used for.
Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
I love the EP, but you are right, to get the most out of it there are a lot of nuances and adjustments that need to be made. It's not as easy as many think.
Inre the Sakai knives/steels and refinement it all really depends. I've got a lot of experience with many high end blades from the area with all sorts of different steels and treatments. I agree that they certainly are capable of taking a nice edge at serious levels of refinement, but I don't think that means that level of refinement is the best for a given knife. Point being I don't think automatically going up through a Yaginoshima is always the right answer for these guys
EDITI was looking back at the progressions I posted and it also looks like I took exactly 50% of the knives up through a meara or yaginoshima, so not sure it's an accurate characterization to say I ended all these on an aoto
Inre the Sakai knives/steels and refinement it all really depends. I've got a lot of experience with many high end blades from the area with all sorts of different steels and treatments. I agree that they certainly are capable of taking a nice edge at serious levels of refinement, but I don't think that means that level of refinement is the best for a given knife. Point being I don't think automatically going up through a Yaginoshima is always the right answer for these guys
EDITI was looking back at the progressions I posted and it also looks like I took exactly 50% of the knives up through a meara or yaginoshima, so not sure it's an accurate characterization to say I ended all these on an aoto
Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
gladius wrote: ↑Mon Mar 05, 2018 10:38 am I think it is harder using an EP as well. One thing to remember is the need to compensate for the different stone thicknesses in the EP progression, even from start to finish on a soft stone like Monzen. Not compensating can result in a rounded edge at higher grits which can also happen freehand if too much pressure is applied. It is also more painstaking to consistently hydrate with upside down stones.
I do agree with some blades finishing better at a lower grit such as Mizuno; their Tenrenjo series finish well at 5-6k as do Shigefusa blades but those Sakai blades really sing at high levels of refinement for most product a gyuto is used for.
I think the nuance I'm trying to convey here is that there are basically 4 ways I think about knives like the Sakai blades you are referring to:
1) The edge can take a very high level of polish, but doesn't necessarily need it produce a fantastic result. Some people (myself included depending upon my patience), will take the edge through higher grits out of preference or b/c why not? The the result be great, but it would have been more than adequate to stop earlier
2) The knife actually NEEDS a high level of refinement to bring out the best in the edge. This is very much the case with both the B1s described earlier (I still need to refine the Kagekiyo and will probably use a Yaginoshima as I know what a Meara acheived with the Ikeda). For instance, after an Aono, there was still just a little too much tooth.
3) The knife can take and hold high refinement, but the edge seems to lose some of the characteristics that I would want to see for the intended application. In most cases, this means feeling a little sterile and lacking of character.
4) The edge appears to fall in group 1) or 3) above, but the reality is I just haven't found the right combination of stones yet that maximizes the refinement/edge quality utility curve so to speak. This probably is the case more often than not
Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
A mid-grit finish suits meat break-down fine but to fully exploit the full potential of these knives a fine grit stone or Awasedo is required, at least IMO. I can't imaging having a super knife that can take a superfine edge and not taking it there. This is the practice and recommendation of many Japanese sharpeners (Chiharu Sugai of Korin) of fine cutlery. If you haven't taken them there, then you don't know what your missing, these are stunning blades; like buying a supercar and never mashing the gas pedal. You really should look into freehand sharpening Chip, esp. using JNats.
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Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
I have strong opinions on this subject and I don't really agree with the perspective that "full potential" can only be achieved if the edge is at its highest possible level of refinement for given treatment; I find many other aspects of a blade fluctuate depending on the quality of the edge, and I am confident that a number of knives actually have balance, weight, and geometry that are best served with different types of edges than ultra-refined ones, particularly when it comes to gyutos, and I consider those all part of a knife's "potential." Now, if I had lots of specialty blades (especially single-bevel ones), I'd most certainly be taking them to a very different level of refinement than my gyutos ("cow knives"). But, as it is, I have tried super-refined edges done by others who should be far better sharpeners than I am, and I know precisely what I am missing, and what I am missing is a less pleasurable and enjoyable experience in the kitchen than I achieve with edges more to my liking. As for Korin, I've experience and heard of too many negative experience with knives being sharpened there to trust them as a source knowledge.
All that is to say, if I only used my knives for specific tasks on specific foods, the level of refinement would almost certainly go up on most of the blades because specialty blades often have a more direct and homogeneous relationship between overall design and edge refinement, but that also means I would end up using them FAR less often, as that level of refinement (nor geometry) isn't ideal for many of the things I prepare from day to day, and I'm not in the habit of switching knives for each ingredient on a typical weeknight. I attribute most of this to the fact that a gyuto isn't really a traditional Japanese profile in the first place, nor does it have much of a place in high-end Japanese cuisine...haha.
All that is to say, if I only used my knives for specific tasks on specific foods, the level of refinement would almost certainly go up on most of the blades because specialty blades often have a more direct and homogeneous relationship between overall design and edge refinement, but that also means I would end up using them FAR less often, as that level of refinement (nor geometry) isn't ideal for many of the things I prepare from day to day, and I'm not in the habit of switching knives for each ingredient on a typical weeknight. I attribute most of this to the fact that a gyuto isn't really a traditional Japanese profile in the first place, nor does it have much of a place in high-end Japanese cuisine...haha.
~J
Comments: I'm short, a home cook, prefer lighter, thinner blades, and have tried dozens of brands over the years.
Comments: I'm short, a home cook, prefer lighter, thinner blades, and have tried dozens of brands over the years.
Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
^^^ This is very well said Joe.
I've also met Sugai on many occasions (Korin is around the corner from my apt.) and have had him sharpen a few of my nicer knives and he doesn't even come close to using 10k+ (or even 7K+) finishes on gyutos in my experience with him
I've also met Sugai on many occasions (Korin is around the corner from my apt.) and have had him sharpen a few of my nicer knives and he doesn't even come close to using 10k+ (or even 7K+) finishes on gyutos in my experience with him
Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
---
Oh I know, I have had knives come back from them sharpened on Mizuyama & Kitayama 6k & 8k...point is they are polished on a finishing stone and not a medium grit stone. Granted, others have strong feelings otherwise (in their opinion) but this is my opinion - and I am not talking "highest possible level of refinement" as with strop pastes and sprays but at least finishing on a fine grit stone suitable for knives not razors. As for negative Korin experiences I can't speak to as my firsthand experiences have been very positive.
@salemj: "haha" ...really?
Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
^^^Fair enough Gladius and I can definitely understand where you are coming from
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Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
All I was laughing at is the situational irony, which I often find to be humorous. And by that I mean that much of the energy that has gone into making gyutos by Japanese artisans began with a globalized expansion to foreign markets for cooks of other cuisines. It seems like gyutos constitute the vast majority of what people like Mark sells, but my sense is that Japanese suppliers (if their digital and physical store fronts are any indication) actually sell way more traditional style blades than gyutos or, even for that matter, non-single bevel knives. Didn't mean for any of the comments to be personal.
~J
Comments: I'm short, a home cook, prefer lighter, thinner blades, and have tried dozens of brands over the years.
Comments: I'm short, a home cook, prefer lighter, thinner blades, and have tried dozens of brands over the years.
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Re: New Knife Sharpening Impressions
For me it highly depends on what I am using. Natural vs synthetic. Stainless vs carbon. Coarse vs fine grained steel. Harder or softer heat treat. Alloyed or simple steel. Meat vs veg. I don't find there to be a one size fit all, for me. If there was then I wouldn't own so many stones...
Having said that, I was firmly in team mid grit camp for a long, long time. I think the more I sharpen the less the edge finish matters as I learn to get more and more out of the stone that is on the bench at the time.
Having said that, I was firmly in team mid grit camp for a long, long time. I think the more I sharpen the less the edge finish matters as I learn to get more and more out of the stone that is on the bench at the time.