Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

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Kit Craft
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Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by Kit Craft »

Suehiro Debado 1000

Background:

See link for background information on this series. Anything that says “notes” or “background” will give general information about the series and the 320 specifically.

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=7047&p=58950#p58950

Foreword:

I did want to makes some notes or give some background on this particular stone rather than just the entire series. I wanted to say ahead of time that this is probably my favorite stone of the series or at least my favorite of the stones I have tried. A bit finer than I have come to expect from a lot of 1k stones, but not all. Good feel in use and feedback and leaves a good edge. I want to map this out beforehand because you know the tone it is going to set for the review but that is not the only reason. I wanted to say that because of the way this stone feels and acts, I think that the 1500, which I have not used, will be worth your consideration as well. That is, assuming it follows the example of this stone and I think it will as this series as a whole seems to work rather cohesively. Just something to consider.

Measurements: These stones were lightly used and then flattened by me so there will be a slight variance. Measurements rounded.

Stone only:

Length: 8 inches (203.2mm)
Width: 3 inches (76.2mm)
Thickness: 1 inch (25.4mm)
Weight: 30 ounces (850g)

Overall with base:

Length: 9 inches (228.6mm)
Width: 3.75 inches (95.25mm)
Thickness: 2.5 inches (63.5mm)
Weight: 35.6 ounces (1010g)

Feedback:

The tactile feedback, like all of the stones in this series, is quite immediate with this 1k stone. What I mean is that it is easy for you to read the stone or rather for you to tell where the edge of the edge is on this stone. As you are “searching” for your angle your bevel just sort of clicks into place and it stays there almost as if it is sucked in and you are being guided. I mean this in a good way, I know sucked in can come off as not so good but, you know what I mean.

As I have mentioned before, feel is often included in the feedback of the stone and this stone feels good in use. This is where I start to label stones as “chalky” because this stone feels like dense chalk in use. Rather, you know that feeling you get when you use a piece of chalk to write on a slate or on the sidewalk? Well, that is how this stone feels in use. Likewise, it reminds you of a traditional clay stone or even the feel of a clay/terracotta pot or tile. That is, both in touch (skin contact) and sharpening feel. It is pleasant and relaxing. It simply makes sharpening on this stone feel enjoyable.

Audible feedback is also quite apparent on this stone. It is not faint but it is not overwhelming. Much like the feel of chalk it sounds like chalk on a slate but wet chalk. Have you ever played with sidewalk chalk in the rain? I do not mean this in a bad way either. It has that silky smooth “shuuuu” sound as your edge moves along the stone. You know something is being done as you can hear the abrasion but at the same time it does not sound like it is ripping off steel.

Now, because of this you will be able to tell if you are off your angle rather easily as if you go over, the edge will make a scraping noise and you will come to a halt fairly quickly with a bit of gouging. If you go under, the pitch will change from a “shuu” to a “zizz” noise…(right, I am a goober, I get it--sorry.) But the point is that the sound change is apparent and you will know that you need to make an adjustment.

Visual feedback is also immediate. From the first stroke you will notice black swarf. It will paint a black line on the stone that will float on the water above the surface of the stone. Over time this will turn to a puddle of black/grey swarf. It does not look like ink, nor powder like you would see on a higher or lower grint stone but rather a pool of mud. Speaking of mud, well, we will get to that momentarily but it is a good mix of metal and abrasives/binder but I bring it up because it will change the way your swarf looks on the stone and lets you know how the stone is working.

Now, if you are sharpening a wide bevel you will notice loads of swarf and mud build up quickly. It will start out black or grey from the cladding but the red/pink mud of the stone mixes in just as quickly turning everything to a brown/grey color. However, the more material you remove, particularly if you are applying pressure on the core steel, the more black/grey of the metal will show through so it is not a hindrance, the mud formation that is.

Management:

Water management on this stone, like all of the stones in this series is quite easy. This stone needs about a seven to ten minute soak in a tub/vat of water or about 2-3 minutes under running water. That is, from a completely dry state. If you use the stone daily and it only needs a refresher, it will soak in about a minute or two in water or a few seconds under the tap.

In use this stone holds its water well so you will not have to splash it often for pure water control. In fact, you will only have to splash water on if you want to clean the stone or thin the mud.

Mud management is straightforward and natural. This is not a muddy stone on a narrow bevel so you really don’t have to do anything but it is fairly muddy to muddy on a wide bevel. It kicks up a creamy mud that requires just a bit, say a drop or two, of water here and there to thin it out. It doesn’t really dry out but it can get too thick to work with causing stone/knife stickage, which you do not want. But this is super easy to control and something you deal with on any stone of this type, or at least in my experience. The mud production on this stone is a plus, for me, and for anyone who likes to kick up a little mud.

Drying, like with the other stones in the series takes a while. This stone will not dry out in a few hours or even overnight. It does not seem to make a paper wet, when tested, like the 320 after 48 hours but you can feel that it is slightly cold yet. I suggest a 72 hours drying period, minimum before putting it in a confined area like its box, to discourage mold growth. However, as I said before, that makes this a good stone for frequent use as it holds its water well so daily soak time is reduced if you can not or will not perma soak, like me.

Speed:

This is not an aggressive stone but it is not gutless either. This one will cut on par with something like a King 1200 or a chosera 1k or so many other stones. What I mean to say is that it is not like those wicked fast stones we have grown used to such as a Shapton Pro 1k, King Hyper, Sigma power etc. It is a strong cutter but not an overachiever, which comes with its pros and cons but that really is a preference based thing. You are less likely to make errors quickly at the slip of a hand but likewise it takes longer to fix errors. Give and take.

Just how fast does it cut though. Well, on an already apexed edge following the 320 it will raise a new (even) burr in just 10 trailing strokes on my Shirogami #2 Ginga @61 HRC and in 15 strokes on my FC61 (13c26) Miyabi Koh @61 HRC. It takes a bit longer on things like VG-10 and Blue #1 (also steels I tested these stones with). It will also take more time on thicker edges or obviously dull knives. (Also note that is not done with “burr raising pressure but rather is a point to show that you can raise a burr even unintentionally, quite quickly. This goes to our talks of only needing to raise a burr once, but I digress.)

Regardless, this stone is capable of doing anything you want it too within reason or at least in the course of standard daily/weekly maintenance. That includes light thinning if done after every bevel reset, bevel resetting and micro chip removal. Of course it is also used to remove coarser scratches from stones like the 320. But you are not going to use this stone for major repair or at least I am not going to.

Finesse:

So, this is not the fastest stone on the market but does that mean it is on the finer side of things, yes, yes it does. This stone may well be a true 1k, I really don’t know how these things work on a microscopic level nor do I know which version of the JIS Suehiro adheres to but in terms of being compared to other stones that I have used in this same range I would say it falls in line with a 1000 to 1200 grit stone and probably closer to 1200, in edge quality, that is. That is to say that if you finish with the finest of stropping strokes the edge you are left with is quite refined for its grit level. Not quite a pre-finisher or lower end polisher but a nice edge that is crisp and clean. One that you really do not need to refine.

Let us talk about that edge that is left. There is more than enough bite for anything you would need. It will not skid on crusty meat nor pepper or tomato skins but rather bite right into them, as it should at this stage of the game. You can cleanly push cut a paper towel at this stage with the slightest hint of resistance. However, a quick strop on newsprint takes care of that and throws this edge well beyond the 2k range while retaining enough bite.

Anyway, you can do all of your tricks such as the no handed tomato, push cutting paper towel or newsprint, shaving your arms etc. Still, not a face edge, not my face anyway. But a good clean edge that is useful for an array of steels, knives and tasks. Or at least in my opinion.

Moving on to the cosmetic finish. This stone will polish out all of the scratches from the 320, while leaving its own more wispy, less noticeable and shallower scratches. The cladding is left dark and foggy while the core starts to shine up a bit more. However, the texture of the cladding is still rough enough to cause resistance in product, in my experience so I would not leave it at this stage. But, if you like a King 800 finish on your cladding, you would be more than fine with this. A good stepping stone for a synthetic kasumi finish as long as you follow it with the right stone, but again, not always needed depending on your finishing stone. A lot of preference comes into play here.

Hardness:

So, as I stated, the stones in this series are not hard. They do not melt when you look at them like butter in the noonday sun but they are not hard like a granite countertop either. I’d say it is noticeably harder than the King but significantly softer than a shapton and chosera. I will state that unlike the 320, this stone is noticeably softer than many stones in its class but I find that to be a good thing because it makes it forgiving. At the same time it is not so soft that you have to worry about gouging on a leading stroke unless you go all batshit when you sharpen...Neither too hard nor too soft. Medium soft, just right. Again, for me.

Dishing:

Dishing, well, this is a medium soft stone so it does dish and noticeably. Not to the eye nor even the touch but it can not escape that good old grid pattern and diamond plate. After a single session on one wide bevel, about 10 minutes in total and one narrow bevel at about 10 minutes the stone did develop highs and lows that needed to be flattened out. This took about 4 minutes to do whereas it takes about half that on my shapton, for comparison. But I do want to note that, that is being very analretentive about flattening and not utilizing the stones surface. This was done intentionally for testing purposes. Alternatively you could do your best to use as much of the stone as possible and you will not need to flatten after every session. Unless the utmost flatness is important to you, but you have to make that call. Regardless, the dishing is nothing that is out of line.

Value:

At $80 this stone is more competitive than its 320 sibling as there are more stones in this grit and price range. However, it is neither at the top nor the bottom of the price range but somewhere between. This is also true of its overall performance so I feel that it is priced appropriately to my standards and needs but those may differ from your own. Regardless, I think it is a fairly priced stone that has wonderful feedback. But it still has competition and not just from other manufactures but from within its own family in the forum of the Suehiro Cerax for almost half the cost. There is a lot to think about here but I will repeat that it is a great stone for a fair price just not a steal.

Vanity:

This one looks like a large eraser like you might have bought as a school kid. You know, those big rectangular pencil erasers. Just, it is not quite pink. More traditional in this sense that it sort of looks like a brick. Point is, nothing special here, like most synthetics.

Bottom line:

Okay, so what is the bottom line. Kit, you say it is a good stone, it has great feedback but it is a bit slower than other well known 1k stones and it is not the best buy. Just where is it that you stand? Well, to answer that question, I would buy this stone. It has a lot of advantages that fit my style of sharpening and general preferences. It has a nice base that works as a stand, for soaking, for storage and for travel. It has wonderful feedback, leaves a nice cosmetic finish and cuts well enough to satisfy its duties while leaving a nicely refined edge for a medium range stone. All in all I think it is a great stone.

Does that mean this is the stone for you? To put it simply, no. If you like softer stones that can be muddy and you work with a lot of wide bevels, surely you might consider this stone. Do you like an edge that is neither coarse nor fine while leaving that balanced bite, then this is a consideration.

On the contrary, if you like a faster cutting 1k and want to use it as a stepping stone 100% of the time, this might not be your stone. I think it still could be but it might not. If you like splash and go, not your stone. If you don’t like mud, also not your stone.

I will say it works as well for wide bevels as it does for narrow bevels and it works fine on all steel that I have tried but I don’t work with PM steel. I no longer even have R2 to test and I regret that as it would have been useful here. But, it handles VG-10 fine so I don’t see where R2 should be a problem. I can not speak for steels that are way out there like ZDP, having never used them though. Sorry about that. But common sense says that this stone and the others in the series should work on anything that any other standard synthetic water stone will work on. If your steel requires special stones, these are probably not for you either.

As always, if you have any questions, please do not hesitate. I know this is a lot of text to look at and takes time to digest and that I may have missed something that you find useful. If that is the case, let me know.

Thanks again to Sean for allowing me the opportunity to use and review these stones. :)
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by Kit Craft »

In this photo you can see that the stone does kick up a lot of metal swarf from the get-go. This photo was taken after just one pass (about 10 trailing strokes on one side) n 13c26 @ 61 HRC.

Image

For comparison here is another photo after finishing the same knife on this stone. So, 1 pass per side at secondary pressure to establish a burr for testing purposes and then 1 pass per side reduced pressure and again one pass per side with reduced pressure. Finally I did 1x1 stropping strokes with just the weight of the blade until the edge was "read" which was probably somewhere around 20x per side--give or take. But as you can see, at most, there is double the swarf from the first photo. Simply reducing pressure reduces cutting speed quite a bit.

Image

Here you can see the mud production after 1 pass on a wide bevel. Yeah, it is muddy and you can see what I described above, and that is the metal and the mud starting to mix together. From this point it will mix more and get thicker. It is up to the user to decide what consistency they want and adjust from there.


Image

Here is a photo that should show you the reduced scratch pattern of the 1k vs the 3k. It also shows the contrast and that the cladding is still dark. It also start to show sings of where I did not open this knife up quite as much as needed on the 320. In fact, it probably needed to drop down to the 220 but that is what it is and is my error not the fault of the stone. However, it does showcase what the stone will and will not do readily in terms of hiding user error.

Image

Just a contrast shot here showing you the cladding color and shading as well as the finish on the core steel.

Image

In comparison here is an example of the finish left by a Shapton Pro 1k. (note in the back corner of the knife, a few mil out, you can see what appears to be a small low spot, which it is. What this is showing is that the SP1k is harder and is not hitting that low spot as much as the Debado. FWIW to you.)

Image
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by old onion »

As always,wonderful review Kit.
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by nakneker »

I always enjoy your stone and knife reviews, nicely done. I only sharpened 15 minutes or so each stone and enjoy them as a series. You mentioned the tone feedback, it’s one of things I enjoyed about these stones, it’s almost like the tone changes as you go and when you’ve reached the end the tone lets you know. I’ll read a couple more times, there’s a lot there. Nice review!!
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by salemj »

Nice, Kit. Interesting how the stone seems to parallel so much about the 320, and yet how much more strongly you are attracted to it in this range (interesting, but not "surprising" or "unique"). Too bad about the PM steel question. I almost wrote a response on another thread that compared VG10 to R2, but then I didn't because I didn't want to get reamed out. It has something I've thought about before, though. I've never checked the chemical composition, but in my very brief experience with the two steels, I do think there are some tactile similarities in terms of feel on the stones at lower grits and through food, even if the "behavior" of the steels is different enough in terms of wearing, etc.

I wish I had more experience with PM steel, and I wish you have more to use, too. I'm still just very resistant...I don't know enough about steel to understand all the science, and I haven't researched enough to know if the people that don't like PM steel for industrial purposes actually know what they are talking about, or if they are just biased. But given the figurative parallels between PM and "regular" steel and synthetic versus natural stones (in particular, I'm referring to consistency of grain formation, etc), it would be a fun complement to have a bit more on PM steels in your reviews of the various stones. Haha.
~Joe

Comments: I'm short, a home cook, prefer lighter, thinner blades, and own mostly Konosukes but have used over a dozen brands.
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by Kit Craft »

Ray, thank you.

Sean, thank you for that and for letting me try out these stones. I think if you spend more time with them you will like them even more. I know you said that you prefer your Cerax but when I send these back, I would use these for awhile before going back to the cerax or even something else. I know that I wish I still had some of the stones I started with because I would probably look at them much differently now than I did before. It is also why I try to to make comparisons between stones that I do not have on hand, because even if I did use them extensively, I have grown as a sharpener and have a long way to go yet. I might feel totally different about stones which I have not used in some time now. I am glad I didn't review some of those stones because I don't think I would have understood them at the time. I think it is time to re-try some of the more classic stones, even if for my own curiosity. :)

As always, thank you Joe. I always enjoy seeing your response. :) As for what attracts me to one stone vs another, that is not always easy to pin down. That is particularly true of naturals in that I can have two very, very similar stones and hate one but love the other. Yet I can have very different stones and love them both--lol.

Eh--I don't get too into steel in general. I have used some PM but not a lot. CPM-3V and R2 are the two I used most and not a lot of either. I am interested in CPM-D2 but maybe that is not so exotic, idk. What I can say is that the PM and even many stainless steels that I have used simply dull differently than a lot of carbon. Though some carbon acts like stainless in that sense, to me. What I mean is how it holds that off the stones "crispness" R2, for example, did not resonate with me because of how it acted off the stones. It seemed to get a good crisp edge, lose 15% (pulled that number out of the air) and stay there freaking forever. Problem is, I like the way a freshly stropped simple carbon edge feels, such as white # 2. However, I also like coarser grained steels sharpened to a more coarse finish or with big jumps as it seems to emulate that off the stone bite even after it fades, if you get what I mean and I am sure you do.

As an aside, it is not that I have used an array of PM steel or even dozens of R2 blades. In fact my R2 experience is almost entirely with lasers and that thin edge could have more to do with my distaste of how the edge degrades directly off of the stones than the steel itself. The real issue, for me, is simply not seeing knives that I am interested in offered in, in PM steel.

The interesting thing about VG-10 is that I like it just fine and more so than many other stainless that I have used including but not limited to 13c26. But that is another topic and 100% preference based off of my own quirkiness. Edit: And I feel I must add one caveat and that is to say that I have never used AEB-L/13c26 from a custom maker who may or may not push the steel beyond what is seen in mass produced knives. Also, that is not to say that I dislike the steel in general as I don't. I am just weird. :P

Hah, I am getting a little off track here. Sorry about that.
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by salemj »

Kit Craft wrote: Mon Jul 02, 2018 7:49 pm
Eh--I don't get too into steel in general. I have used some PM but not a lot. CPM-3V and R2 are the two I used most and not a lot of either. I am interested in CPM-D2 but maybe that is not so exotic, idk. What I can say is that the PM and even many stainless steels that I have used simply dull differently than a lot of carbon. Though some carbon acts like stainless in that sense, to me. What I mean is how it holds that off the stones "crispness" R2, for example, did not resonate with me because of how it acted off the stones. It seemed to get a good crisp edge, lose 15% (pulled that number out of the air) and stay there freaking forever. Problem is, I like the way a freshly stropped simple carbon edge feels, such as white # 2. However, I also like coarser grained steels sharpened to a more coarse finish or with big jumps as it seems to emulate that off the stone bite even after it fades, if you get what I mean and I am sure you do.
Thanks for the additional comments; and yes, I know EXACTLY what you mean. I've commented on R2 here and there, and what you say above is my #1 issue with the steel (well, that and the "numbness"). In my brief experiences with it, I found it to take a wonderfully refined edge at extremely high polish; but I also got the impression that the "retention" that is often discussed with R2 is about 10% (??) below peak...and, perhaps more importantly, for me, it seemed to almost LOSE bite as it lost keenness. Carbon is almost the opposite: as they lose keenness, they seem to still come right back to (aggressive) life with just a tiny bit of attention. So, again, both change...it comes down to preferences for how one deals with edges after board contact, rather than that "ideal" edge just off the stone.

These are NOT facts. My experience is based on a few short encounters, and I don't do anything close to professional prep. I would never pretend to speak to the practical advantages of R2. And I know many others love the steel. However, what you say above makes me realize that you need to try Nubatama "Black Steel," Kit. And I need to try ZDP or Hap40. I have a feeling these may be similarly magical. Black Steel feels very, very alloyed, but it also feels very "Carbon" and holds an edge seemingly forever. It is amazing. I'll admit, it is slightly less amazing after trying some other super-hard steels...but the thing here is that it is tough as nails, too. I imagine if I tried ZDP or Hap40, I might also learn something new that would change my impressions of R2.

This is a digression from your terrific stone discussion. But I needed to comment, and I think it IS relevant to mix discussions of steel with discussions of stones. As you know, the conversation about how a stone cuts always related to steel type, and the more you get into "exotic" steels, particularly wear-resistant ones (I guess with M and extra V), it really does affect stone performance. Similarly, easy-to-sharpen carbons can be more fun with stones that are actually a bit slower, softer, and muddier, because then the issue isn't getting the edge, but more how precise and how cosmetic you want things to be as you take your time getting there. The overgrind image above was really telling in this respect, and an eye-opener. It may also speak to some of what you enjoy in these stones, too.

I guess the 3k is next. Something tells me that is the stone that will have the most radical "change over time" for you. I'm waiting to hear whether it becomes your new favorite as you spend more time with it...haha. I have a feeling that you'll connect with it for microbevel...but that is also the hardest thing to judge in the short-term, so maybe not...
~Joe

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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by nakneker »

Sean, thank you for that and for letting me try out these stones. I think if you spend more time with them you will like them even more. I know you said that you prefer your Cerax but when I send these back, I would use these for awhile before going back to the cerax or even something else. I know that I wish I still had some of the stones I started with because I would probably look at them much differently now than I did before. It is also why I try to to make comparisons between stones that I do not have on hand, because even if I did use them extensively, I have grown as a sharpener and have a long way to go yet. I might feel totally different about stones which I have not used in some time now. I am glad I didn't review some of those stones because I don't think I would have understood them at the time. I think it is time to re-try some of the more classic stones, even if for my own curiosity. :)

I immediately like the stones, even if it was just using them briefly. I do enjoy the Cerax stones and many others. Right now I’m playing with a new Imanishi 6k and some SP stones, a few natural stones too.

I’ve been so impressed with Steve’s fingerstones work and etching that I’ll probably be trying some of that out. There is no end to it all.

I’m glad you enjoyed playing with the Debados, I think there’s a lot of curiosity and interest in the stones.
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by jmcnelly85 »

From a volume standpoint, what I’ve experienced with R2 and it’s edge retention is that after it loses it’s fresh off the stone crispness it seems to hold its working edge for an astonishingly long time... Touches up rather easily as well. I can see how polarizing it can be, but either way it has its place.

Thanks again for another wonderful stone review, you’ve amassed quite an array of detailed thoughts to help demystify a large number of stones. Thank you for the time you’ve invested for us.
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by Kit Craft »

jmcnelly, thank you for the confirmation on R2 in general.

Also, no problem. I enjoy sharpening/using stones and sharing my thoughts on them.

Sean, I hear you. I am not huge into finger stones and such. I am more "raw" in that I try to do as much as I can on the stone. Not that my focus won't shift in the future though! But I do like a working finish as I mostly cover it up with patina anyway--lol. As for etching, that does sound cool but I have nothing to etch so I will leave that to you. :D

Joe, I hear you on the black steel but my funds are still set aside (and growing) for a honyaki. I just have not decided what to do yet. A lot of cash to drop so I want to be sure!

As for the stones, yes, the 3k is next. I have done about the same amount of work on each stone and have used the 3k quite a bit but these stones are drying out to be shipped back to Sean. That means nothing will grow on me any more than it already has. What I can tell you ahead of time is that the 1k remains my favorite but I think if I used the 1500 that would take its place. I honestly think that is likely to be the gem of the series. But, overall I do like the 3k but for me the 3-4k range is a strange one for water stones. Honestly I could almost say 3-5k as there seems to be a ton of overlap in a 3k, 4k and 5k from one line or brand to the next though I say that the 5k more often but not always overlaps the 6k.

Eh--having coffee. I will check back later. :P

Thank you for the added comments and discussion everyone!
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by salemj »

Kit Craft wrote: Tue Jul 03, 2018 8:29 am

Joe, I hear you on the black steel but my funds are still set aside (and growing) for a honyaki. I just have not decided what to do yet. A lot of cash to drop so I want to be sure!

Haha. Just to be clear, I'm not suggesting you buy one. I think you just need to try one for a bit and use it on the stones! I don't really think it is your style so much.

JMC, I totally hear you, too. I tried to acknowledge R2 fits some preferences and needs especially well, and especially for professional work, but it is always good to hear those sentiments renewed, too. One thing I don't like is when people just repeat what they've read and knives or steels get a reputation based on that (VG-10, the KS, and so many other individual knives). With R2, that is definitely NOT the case: enough pros use it often enough (and enough home users now, too, given its incredibly ubiquitousness and popularity even among mass-market brands), that its reputation is definitely based on actually use and actual performance!

OK, Kit. I stand corrected. Let the 1k reign supreme! You've used the SP 1k versus 1.5k—two extremely different stones, almost like using an 800 versus a 2000...haha.
~Joe

Comments: I'm short, a home cook, prefer lighter, thinner blades, and own mostly Konosukes but have used over a dozen brands.
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by Kit Craft »

Right, which is why I had to caveat and say that "if" the 1500 follows the trends of the rest of the series I think it will be a gem. But also as I said, you know what happens when you assume something!
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by nakneker »

Just enjoyed a some coffee myself, sitting on the porch watching a coyote trying to get himself a prairie dog snack.
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by ChefKnivesToGo »

Finally getting these this week. I should be getting a regular supply going forward.
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Re: Suehiro Debado 1000 (No.1200 SNE)

Post by nakneker »

ChefKnivesToGo wrote: Sun Aug 05, 2018 9:16 am Finally getting these this week. I should be getting a regular supply going forward.
Good news, I like these stones a lot and will add to the four I have now!
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