Recent Work
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Re: Recent Work
This is a Wantanabe 300mm Sakimaru Takobiko with a handle of dyed and stabilized maple burl with an abalone spacer and end cap and nickel-silver accents.
Thanks for looking.
Thanks for looking.
- Jeff B
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Re: Recent Work
Very nice Carter, very nice!
If God wanted me to be a vegetarian he wouldn't have made animals taste so good.
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Re: Recent Work
Here is a 240mm Tamahagane gyuto made by Yasha Yukawa. I have worked on many of his blades and this one is the most highly evolved yet regarding profile, grind, and cutting performance. All of his knives are beautifully made, they do have their quirks, but so do many top knives. The handle is mammoth ivory with a bog oak core, ferrule, and end cap with nickel-silver accents. Final photo is with a 210mm Yukawa gyuto that is shipping today. Yukawa has a strong international following, these knives are headed to Singapore and London.
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Thanks for looking.
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Re: Recent Work
This is a Hinoura “River Jump” 260mm gyuto. Tsukasa Hinoura is a 3rd generation bladesmith from Sanjo in Niigata prefecture, Japan. This elegant blade is forged beginning with a Shirogami #2 core (hagane) and wrapped with wrought iron damascus forged in a slow half twist. The half twist is a pattern that Hinoura has become renowned for. The result is a blade of extraordinary beauty, in which the river like flow of the Damascus surface alternates with the peace of a perfectly even surface -animated and static elements in perfect harmony. It shows tremendous skill and visual impact.
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Re: Recent Work
I have had a few questions recently about applying a "maker's mark", below are photos of my setup and the marked blades. There are two basic way to put the mark on a blade using an electric current and an electrolyte, one is to etch, the other is to mark. Etching uses direct current and actually eats away the metal to make a mark that is permanent. Marking uses alternating current and essentially silk screens the mark, it can be scratched off over time. The method I use is a combination, first etching and then followed by marking, this makes the etched portion of the blade darker.
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Thanks for looking.
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Re: Recent Work
Doing some destructive testing of my 52100 carbon steel blades, hardness is 62HRC. This is a laser blade, 1.3mm at the spine. I cut 3 8 penny nails (3.3mm) and there was minimal damage to the cutting edge, it wrinkled and rolled over, but no real chipping or loss of metal. I think repair would be about 5-10 minutes on the stones. I then put it in the vise and bent it 90 degrees each way several times, it returned to vertical each time. The photo with the cut nails was after the bending, as you can see, there is no warping or twist. I also broke the tang off, the broken surface shows a very fine and evenly distributed grain structure, just the way it should be.
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- mauichef
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Re: Recent Work
I've done a bunch of them....this latest blade was the best so far in my opinion....Yukawa is consistently getting better with his kitchen knives.
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Re: Recent Work
Thanks....here is a knife, a 180mm petty, that I made out of the other side of that handle block....it is snakeskin sycamore....I also just make another snakeskin sycamore handle for a really cool knife & guy....pics to come.
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Re: Recent Work
I broke the tang off on purpose to look at the grain structure of the metal. It was not easy, but I mounted the blade in a vise with just a little of the tang sticking out and wacked it with a hammer right where it came out of the vise....a few tries and it popped off. I wanted as clean a break as possible so I wouldn't disturb the grain.
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- Jeff B
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Re: Recent Work
I must say those tests impressed me. Looks like your doing a great job!
If God wanted me to be a vegetarian he wouldn't have made animals taste so good.