Looking for a Handle / Handle Craftsman

[jobone]

For those inquiring, this is what a variety of pheasant wood looks like. This came from Malaysia, I’m not sure how different it is from the Hawaiian stock.



Here’s an unpolished block, you can see the patterns can get pretty cool

[Wjhunt]

So many gorgeous woods mentioned. That pheasant wood is stunning. I like curly maple with the Aqua Fortis treatment for an aged look.

[Jeff B]

For those inquiring, this is what a variety of pheasant wood looks like. This came from Malaysia, I’m not sure how different it is from the Hawaiian stock...

That's some cool stuff Joe!

[Bluenoser87]

I see why they call it pheasant wood. That’s neat

[Carter]

The wood is the easy part, certainly a thoughtful decision and something that appeals to you will be made. I agree with several of the posts already presented, that a muted wood pattern may be best. My take is that with a special blade, which this is, and a blade with a dramatic pattern, again this blade, that an understated wood would likely be the best compliment and will elevate the blade, not compete with it. As a craftsman, my larger concern is with the installation of the handle, and primarily the sanding of the wood and eventual sanding of the bolster/tang. It is virtually impossible to sand and contour the wood handle without sanding the bolster or the tang and grinding through the current etch on the blade. I am not sure if the blade can be re-etched locally at the bolster and tang, and if so, with what, and will it match the rest of the blade, or if the entire blade will need a light sanding and be re-etched in entirety. Additionally, the tang will likely need to be heated with a torch in order to drill holes for at least two Loveless or Corby bolts...this needs to be done with care, so as not to ruin the temper of the blade or cause damage to the bolster tang joint...photo 1 of the blade looks like the bolster may have been soldered/brazed to the tang.

The technical concerns for this blade are greater than many western handle installs. No need to worry about wood getting dark or losing the original brilliance, if it is treated and finished properly.

[Kalaeb]

. Additionally, the tang will likely need to be heated with a torch in order to drill holes for at least two Loveless or Corby bolts...this needs to be done with care, so as not to ruin the temper of the blade or cause damage to the bolster tang joint..

Great catch. I did not even notice it did not have rivet holes.

[e.chou]

Thank you everyone for the pics and recommendations! Some awesome looking stuff out there

The wood is the easy part, certainly a thoughtful decision and something that appeals to you will be made. I agree with several of the posts already presented, that a muted wood pattern may be best. My take is that with a special blade, which this is, and a blade with a dramatic pattern, again this blade, that an understated wood would likely be the best compliment and will elevate the blade, not compete with it. As a craftsman, my larger concern is with the installation of the handle, and primarily the sanding of the wood and eventual sanding of the bolster/tang. It is virtually impossible to sand and contour the wood handle without sanding the bolster or the tang and grinding through the current etch on the blade. I am not sure if the blade can be re-etched locally at the bolster and tang, and if so, with what, and will it match the rest of the blade, or if the entire blade will need a light sanding and be re-etched in entirety. Additionally, the tang will likely need to be heated with a torch in order to drill holes for at least two Loveless or Corby bolts...this needs to be done with care, so as not to ruin the temper of the blade or cause damage to the bolster tang joint...photo 1 of the blade looks like the bolster may have been soldered/brazed to the tang.

The technical concerns for this blade are greater than many western handle installs. No need to worry about wood getting dark or losing the original brilliance, if it is treated and finished properly.

Oh boy, I hadn't even thought of all that. Like Kalaeb, I didn't notice there weren't holes either

How difficult do you think that a job like this would be, Carter? I'd like to avoid a full re-etch if possible, unless I was pretty confident in the craftsman working on it. But at the same time, I realize now that I don't know nearly enough about all the work it would take to get this done to really know what is/not possible... I don't know if it makes a difference, but cost isn't really an issue - I care a lot more about finding someone who can get all the details right.

[Carter]

Thank you everyone for the pics and recommendations! Some awesome looking stuff out there

Oh boy, I hadn't even thought of all that. Like Kalaeb, I didn't notice there weren't holes either

How difficult do you think that a job like this would be, Carter? I'd like to avoid a full re-etch if possible, unless I was pretty confident in the craftsman working on it. But at the same time, I realize now that I don't know nearly enough about all the work it would take to get this done to really know what is/not possible... I don't know if it makes a difference, but cost isn't really an issue - I care a lot more about finding someone who can get all the details right.

There is virtually no way to install the handle with a good fit where the bolster/tang will not be touched by sand paper and the etch scratched or removed. As craftsmen, we all try to minimize any "collateral damage" (mainly because it can take a really long time to fix) to the blade, but it almost always happens. The photo below is of a Konosuke HD that I recently re-handled in desert ironwood and I had to sand and match the factory scratch pattern on both the bolster and tang. The bolster actually had to be reshaped a tad in this case. This handle was installed with two Corby bolts and a mosaic pin as mechanical fasteners as well as epoxy. The handle was also coated with a finish that will seal and protect the handle against moisture/oils/dirt, etc. and will maintain its' brilliance for years.

Regarding etch, even knowing the exact etchant used by the maker, local etching doesn't always match up. I have reached out to a couple of Japanese makers regarding their etchant over the years....they aren't sharing....seems they each have their proprietary method, even if it is just ferric chloride. I would guess that it is a 50/50 chance on having to etch the entire blade. The good thing is that if the first etch doesn't result in the desired look, it can be sanded off and re-etched in a different solution or dilution or time etc.

[cliff]

Carter, was that originally a Western handle (I've never seen one), or did you have to convert it? In either case, it's beautiful.

[Carter]

Carter, was that originally a Western handle (I've never seen one), or did you have to convert it? In either case, it's beautiful.

Western....they are out there...have done a few over the years. Thanks!

[timos]

its a good candidate to finish the handle slabs just proud of the bolsters...you see that alot on many fine knives especially with more fragile / expensive materials. Look up pictures of J Doyle knives or Don Hanson and you will see what I mean. If I had my way with that knife I would create the same handle profile in titanium a little thicker stock than the knife is at the heel. Convert the knife to hidden tang and build it as a frame handle. If it was in the budget Id get a sweet pc of fossil walrus from MArk Knapp for the handle scales....stabilized bog oak wouldnt be too shabby either though

[Corradobrit]

This handle looks great with the kitaeji finish

This is flamed maple

[Kalaeb]

[/quote]


Regarding etch, even knowing the exact etchant used by the maker, local etching doesn't always match up. I have reached out to a couple of Japanese makers regarding their etchant over the years....they aren't sharing....seems they each have their proprietary method, even if it is just ferric chloride. I would guess that it is a 50/50 chance on having to etch the entire blade. The good thing is that if the first etch doesn't result in the desired look, it can be sanded off and re-etched in a different solution or dilution or time etc.

[/quote]

Carter, Have you ever had success in masking the wood with tape or clear nail polish prior to etching a tang? It has been awhile but I think I remember Markeo or Kyle Royer doing this.

Whatever happens I think you should make a request to have the maker post a WIP. Curious to see how this turns out.

[Carter]

Carter, Have you ever had success in masking the wood with tape or clear nail polish prior to etching a tang? It has been awhile but I think I remember Markeo or Kyle Royer doing this.

No luck with tape, but TruOil does a good job...it is still hard to get a perfect mask line between the metal and wood....tape helps, but both oil and nail polish can run underneath. The issue with this blade is the full tang that has the Damascus pattern, if it were just the bolster, it would be easier, but I am assuming the whole knife will need to be immersed or at least use a Q-tip or similar to swab the etchant along the tang, but that generally does not provide a great result.