Refinishing handle

[cwillett]

I have a Yahiko 240mm gyuto:

https://www.chefknivestogo.com/yawh2nagy24.html

The handle is ho wood. It is now fairly well stained from sharpening and a lot of kitchen use. I'd like to refinish it with a couple of goals in mind. First, I'd like to improve the grip a little bit as the handle is now quite smooth and not as grippy as I remember it being when I bought it. Second, I'd like to stain the wood a bit to darken the color. I'm not sure if this is feasible or not, but I'd like to end up with something approximating the color of:

https://www.chefknivestogo.com/koskdgy24la.html

Obviously not the grain. I'd assume that I should start with sand paper after taping off the ferule. Something like 100 grit followed by 400 grit. And then an oil, like teak oil. Or something else? Would an additional finish (polyurethane?) be recommended or even needed? Or just occasional re-application of the oil?

[jacko9]

If you want a darker color you need to get a stain before you put on a finish like oil. Woodcraft Supply has a lot of stains and one of the easier ones to use is a General Finishes Gel Stain applied after you sand the wood to get the roughness you desire. Using a Gel Stain will most likely require a few coats to build the color you like and then let that dry for a day or two before putting on a top coat. Go to the General Finishes web site and look at some of the videos for suggestions on the top coat. You can buy from Woodcraft Supply online and get the smallest can offered of stain but, remember that stain color looks different of different woods and you'll never match the looks of a dark hardwood like on your second link. If I wanted to darken a ho wood handle I would use the Java Gel Stain followed by General Finishes Arm-R-Seal urethane in semi gloss. Try it on some scrap wood first before you commit to your knife handle.

[BurlsnBlades]

Have you thought about burning it? You could tape off the ferrule and use a little propane touch to do some shou sugi ban. This could reduce the size of the handle very slightly (but so will sanding), which might cause the ferrule to stand a little proud of the handle, but only if you burned it deeply. If you keep the burn surficial and slightly back from the ferrule (like on the burnt Chestnut handles you see on some knives) it shouldn't be an issue. Then just lightly scrub it with a toothbrush or something using longitudinal strokes, and oil it if ya want. I do this to wood regularly and I love... Smells way better than using nasty stains, too!

[delmar]

So horn has an annoying way of showing sandpaper scratches well into the super super fine grits. I suspect you will need to go higher than 400. Sand in the same direction, always. Tape off the blade. Protect the edge.

One suggestion - almost all oils, including teak (usually made from tung nut mostly), tung, danish and a host of other have a slight (mostly amber-ish) tint to them, so they darken the wood a bit.

Dying works, but it starts to fade unless you seal with something rather durable, like tru oil. You can try ebonizing, just never did it with a handle on the knife and not sure how that would work, and whether it would do anything to the horn.

Last, keep in mind how folks in Japan have been renewing their wa handles for quite some time - sanding them down when they get dirty. Someone posted a photo of Chef Morimoto's knives, and the handles have been sanded down so much they had an hour glass shape!

[Chocu1a]

I second burning the handle. Turns out really nice.

[BurlsnBlades]

I second burning the handle. Turns out really nice.

ooh Nice. And I love those red ferrules for some reason. Is that Ho wood?

[Chocu1a]

I second burning the handle. Turns out really nice.

ooh Nice. And I love those red ferrules for some reason. Is that Ho wood?

Yes. Standard Yuki handle

[cwillett]

That looks awesome! And I’ve got a Yuki petty that is in need of some love also. Can you add a few details of your process?

I ended sanding the Yahiko handle with 100 grit sandpaper only, the doing two coats in teal oil. It looks nice, and feels good, but also looks like a slightly richer version of the stock finish.

[Drewski]

That looks awesome! And I’ve got a Yuki petty that is in need of some love also. Can you add a few details of your process?

+1

[Chocu1a]

Tape off ferrule. I used a propane torch, the hand held kind for making creme brulee. Make quick short passes until you have covered the entire handle. Repeat to achieve the desired depth of char. Once done, I used a green scotch pad to smooth it out and make sure burn was even. Repeat all steps again if there are any uneven spots or to get a darker color.
Here are a couple more I did:

[cwillett]

Did you oil or seal the handle after?

[dc2123]

Have you thought about burning it? You could tape off the ferrule and use a little propane touch to do some shou sugi ban. This could reduce the size of the handle very slightly (but so will sanding), which might cause the ferrule to stand a little proud of the handle, but only if you burned it deeply. If you keep the burn surficial and slightly back from the ferrule (like on the burnt Chestnut handles you see on some knives) it shouldn't be an issue. Then just lightly scrub it with a toothbrush or something using longitudinal strokes, and oil it if ya want. I do this to wood regularly and I love... Smells way better than using nasty stains, too!

So if you burn it,
All you need to do afterwards is smooth it out and then oil it? No stain needed ?

[BurlsnBlades]

No stain, just oil (or mixed with beeswax, if ya like); the darkness comes from the charring of the wood. I do a similar process to chocu1a, only I scrub it lightly with a plastic bristled brush instead of a scotch Brite. I hold it by the blade with the handle pointing up, since flame rises up and I want the ferrule out of the danger zone.
I'm actually putting up a whole wall in my room done this way.

[Chocu1a]

No stain, just oil (or mixed with beeswax, if ya like); the darkness comes from the charring of the wood. I do a similar process to chocu1a, only I scrub it lightly with a plastic bristled brush instead of a scotch Brite. I hold it by the blade with the handle pointing up, since flame rises up and I want the ferrule out of the danger zone.
I'm actually putting up a whole wall in my room done this way.

Shou-sugi-ban? Is that to what you are referring?

[BurlsnBlades]

Yeah

[sharksfan7]

Love the look of that burned Yuki handle. I got a Yuki petty I wouldn't mind trying this on. Was wondering though, I've treated mine with mineral oil and beeswax several times since I've had it. Do you think that would cause an issue when burning? Last thing I'd want is for it to ignite and continue to smolder deeper after I've removed the flame.

[Ut_ron]

Love the look of that burned Yuki handle. I got a Yuki petty I wouldn't mind trying this on. Was wondering though, I've treated mine with mineral oil and beeswax several times since I've had it. Do you think that would cause an issue when burning? Last thing I'd want is for it to ignite and continue to smolder deeper after I've removed the flame.

I would sand down the handle before burning it to remove the current finish.

If you choose to go direct use the flame away to lightly burn off the beeswax and oil. Also do out side as it will smoke and stink a bunch.

[Jeff B]

I'd love to burn some of my Ho wood handles but they are all sealed with Tru-Oil. Don't think that would work out in my favor. I may try it on one of my knock offs just to see though.

[sharksfan7]

I'd love to burn some of my Ho wood handles but they are all sealed with Tru-Oil. Don't think that would work out in my favor. I may try it on one of my knock offs just to see though.

I sealed the handle on my Koishi honesuki with Tru-Oil a couple years ago. I really like it for that one considering all the raw chicken juice it comes in contact with. Not sure I'd want it on all my knives though. But the wood on the Yuki does seem a lot softer & porous than my other Ho wood handles. Seems to pick up stains a lot easier.

[delmar]

I'd love to burn some of my Ho wood handles but they are all sealed with Tru-Oil. Don't think that would work out in my favor. I may try it on one of my knock offs just to see though.

Good question. I have an old ho handle. I'll drop some tru oil on it, sand off when dried (or denatured alcohol and steel wool), and see what happens when I burn it. I will drop you a line when done.

My thinking is this - Tru oil is largely mineral spirits (I assume to dilute), varnish (or urethane, depending on who you ask) and linseed oil. Varnish tends to be more of a surface dweller, so sanding (or DNA/steel wool) should get most it. That leaves the linseed oil. Heating it may send it towards polymerization, which may not be a bad thing. We'll see. I will be wearing a respirator and will be outdoors next to my pool, so in case of ignition I have 23,000 gallons to extinguish.