Adventures in Japan

[Drewski]

That meal and experience are beyond words. Truly. I'm imagining being there and it's almost overwhelming. Really happy for you! (and nice to put a face to the name)

[salemj]

Alright, I have to ask - are those two young folks, the ones drinking tea - you and yours?

Haha. Yep, that’s me and the wifey. People never believe me when I tell them that I just turned 40. And we’re guzzling some sake. I think I might have finished one entire bamboo stalk of sake...as evidenced by my Asian glow

That's wonderful. I was wondering if you'd ever leak into your own photos! I have to admit that one sadness I have from being the cameraman is that I have very few photos of me at many memorable events.

I wanted to ask: does the food taste noticeably different? In my time in France and Switzerland, I found each location to taste quite distinct. In fact, I was not particularly fond of the "French" aspects of flavor of typical grocery ingredients, even if I always enjoyed my cooked meals there and have a deep respect for the cuisine. (One example is dairy: the dairy, including eggs, in Switzerland was undoubtedly and absolutely FAR superior to France during my seasons there.) On the one hand, the food in your posts all looks traditional enough that I can imagine it is hard to compare to what you may find at home, but on the other, I am very curious if there are particular aspects of flavour that "stick out" to you from the trip, either with particular types of ingredients or with broader aspects of preparation. I realize this is beyond the wonderfully succinct travelogue you're providing, but if you feel like sharing, I'd be interested!

[nakneker]

Another great update to a fantastic thread. The food pics and better yet the descriptions are a lot of fun. The traditional style lodging, fires, warm sake are adding up to some sensory overload. I rarely take the time to take photos on my vacations, this thread is making me set a goal or two along those lines. These updates just get better and better!

Thats some big smiles on you and your beautiful wife’s face...... two very happy campers!

[Jeff B]

With the detail in this thread I'm starting to feel as if I've been to Japan now....

Absolutely fabulous description and photos of each piece of the journey Steve!

[pd7077]

That's wonderful. I was wondering if you'd ever leak into your own photos! I have to admit that one sadness I have from being the cameraman is that I have very few photos of me at many memorable events.

I wanted to ask: does the food taste noticeably different? In my time in France and Switzerland, I found each location to taste quite distinct. In fact, I was not particularly fond of the "French" aspects of flavor of typical grocery ingredients, even if I always enjoyed my cooked meals there and have a deep respect for the cuisine. (One example is dairy: the dairy, including eggs, in Switzerland was undoubtedly and absolutely FAR superior to France during my seasons there.) On the one hand, the food in your posts all looks traditional enough that I can imagine it is hard to compare to what you may find at home, but on the other, I am very curious if there are particular aspects of flavour that "stick out" to you from the trip, either with particular types of ingredients or with broader aspects of preparation. I realize this is beyond the wonderfully succinct travelogue you're providing, but if you feel like sharing, I'd be interested!

I totally feel where you’re coming from. I’m always the guy behind the camera so it’s very rare that I’m actually in a photo. This time around, I tried to make it a point to be in the shots a bit more. I’m super picky with photos so I ended up taking some test shots so that I could adjust the settings before handing off the camera to someone else to snap the pic.

As for the food, there was a definitely a difference in the flavor. For me, it was most noticeable in the sushi. I grew up eating sushi because my dad literally ate it everyday for lunch. We get some fantastic sushi here in Cali, but it really doesn’t come close to what we had in Japan. I tried to not let the nostalgia of where we were influence my opinions. Uni was the one that left a lasting impression. It’s my second favorite cut of sushi (second only to mirugai), and the flavors we get here in Cali usually range from sweet to briny. The Hokkaido uni was just an explosion of flavor that started off with intense brininess and finished off with a lingering sweetness that makes you want more. My wife isn’t a fan of uni, but she fell in love with it there. Hotate, amaebi, and lobster were also much sweeter than anything I’ve ever had. There’s gotta be something magical about the combination of shellfish and the waters of Japan

I can’t really comment extensively when it comes to the traditional preparation of Japanese cuisine because it’s been years since I’ve had a kaiseki (or any sort of traditionally prepared meal). The one thing I did notice was the larger variety of ingredients (especially vegetables) that were used. We had a lot of different radishes, taro, burdock root, & lotus root, which we don’t really see much of out here. The variety of tofu was also surprising. The wagyu was a revelation; I made it a point to try a solution many differ types and preparations as possible. We ended up being able to try four different types of A5 (Hida, Kobe, Iga & Matsusaka) that were prepared various ways (tataki, habachi, shabu shabu & grilled) so the carnivor in me was satisfied. Because of the exposure we had to more traditional cuisine, we are going to make it a point to try more here at home. We also did an obanzai cooking class in Kyoto, but I’ll get into that later

[pd7077]

Being a traditional ryokan, our villa did not have centralized heating/cooling so each room had 2-3 portable space heaters. We slept comfortably, and awaking to the view outside of our window was mesmerizing.





Arriving after the sun had set combined with the secluded location of the ryokan meant that we had no idea what the property looked like. I’m a bit of an early riser (my wife not so much) so I went out and explored a bit before breakfast. The cool morning air, the sound of the river, the smell of a wood burning fire, the color of autumn...all that was missing was a cup of coffee so I went back to the room to have a few cups while getting ready for the day.





After the satisfying meal that we enjoyed the night before, I didn’t think that we would have room for any more food. I was hoping for something light and easy, but we were again escorted to a private dining room with a spread of food that made my mouth water and my stomach cry. I asked our server why we were in another private room, and he said that our travel agency had requested this room for us...again, an apology for the mixup yesterday. I was a bit baffled because I didn’t think that it was a huge issue, and last night’s dinner was more than enough to make up for any slight inconvenience that we experienced. I was told many times before we came to Japan that Japanese really take pride in their service, and I was learning each day how true this really was.





To be continued...

[Kit Craft]

Man, the photos and story to go with it is amazing! Thank you for sharing!

[Ut_ron]

What a great place you got to stay. Just awesome. Thanks for the continued travel log.

[nakneker]

Nice to see another update to the thread! Fun fun fun!

[Steel+Fire]

So many cool pictures and really informative commentary. Thanks for sharing your trip.

[pd7077]

I forgot to mention one thing that came in extremely handy during the trip, especially in Takayama....a portable WiFi device. The ryokan had WiFi access, but it wasn't nearly as good as the other hotels that we stayed at. I was told that the portable devices could be rented at the airport, but I decided to buy one since my wife and I do a fair bit of traveling. There are a bunch of different ones on the market so I did quite a bit of research before settling in on the Glocalme G3. It was super convenient to have because we were always connected no matter where we were, but this was especially true in the more rural areas. Download speeds were fast enough that I was able to stream Netflix on the bullet train without any sort of buffering lag. It was also perfect on the days that we were exploring on our own because we could just log on to GoogleMaps to figure out where we were and where we were going. We don't speak a lick of Japanese either so it simplified communicating with the cabbies. Just pull up your destination on GoogleMaps and show it to the taxi driver...easy peasy

[pd7077]

After yet another fantastic meal, we went down to the lobby to find Tadashi-san waiting for us. It was raining outside, and he was prepared with umbrellas for each of us to use for the day. The first stop was at Miya-gawa morning market on the east bank of the Miya river. We looked around at the various stalls displaying an assortment of vegetables, local handicrafts, and street vendors. I was still stuffed from breakfast, but I could not stop turning back to look at the takoyaki and taiyaki stands. There was no way that I could fit anything else into my stomach, but I sure as hell was gonna try! We had takoyaki (battered octopus balls) at several different places, but these were definitely the tastiest ones.





The next stop was Shirakawago located in the Shogawa River Valley. The villages in the area were relatively cut-off from the rest of Japan so the villagers continued their traditional lifestyle. They cultivated silk worms under the steeply thatched roofs of their traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses that rested amidst rice fields and vegetable plots. The farmhouses and homes were constructed without the use of nails. Rather, the beams and pillars were held together with thick ropes. This allowed for structural movement to help withstand the strong winds and heavy snow during the cold winters. TIP: The Hida beef croquettes in the center of town are the perfect snack. I would post a photo of them, but they were so good that I ate two without even thinking about taking a picture.





The rain started coming down pretty hard so we headed back to the car so that we could make our way back to Takayama. We did quite a bit of walking so the one hour drive back was the perfect opportunity for a nap. Tadashi-san woke us up once we got back to Takayama, and he took us to his favorite coffee shop for a late afternoon pick-me-up. Great coffee, tasty snacks & pastries...but the best part was the barista.



We then walked over to the Sanmachi-suji district, which is a quaint historic area with a timeless feel. The buildings are constructed from cypress & cedar with latticed windows, a picturesque aesthetic that was preserved to display how Takayama looked during the Edo period. This region is also known for sake so there were quite a number of breweries located there. Most offered sake tastings, and that’s something that we could not turn down. The breweries are easily identified by the sugidama (cedar branch spheres) that hung over their entrances.





As we were walking back to our car, we met a cute mother-daughter pair that were heading home from a ceremony. They were dressed in some exquisite kimonos, and they graciously allowed me to take a few photos. After a long day, we looked forward to returning to the ryokan so that we could relax at the onsen.



To be continued...

[nakneker]

I’ve had a couple busy days and missed this latest update. I love the mother and daughter pic. It seems like you were on a trip to Japan and a trip enjoyung some damn good eating. You have a knack for remembering details, fun to read and another round of great pics. I hope you keep them coming!

[Thin Man]

Steve:

I really appreciate that you are posting such a detailed account of your trip. The photographs are fantastic and your narrative is excellent as well. For someone who claims not to write much about his photos, you are doing a very professional job.

Thank you.

Jay

[nakneker]

Steve:

I really appreciate that you are posting such a detailed account of your trip. The photographs are fantastic and your narrative is excellent as well. For someone who claims not to write much about his photos, you are doing a very professional job.

Thank you.

Jay

Very well said, couldn’t agree more.

[Jeff B]

Steve so many of your pictures have the look as if they could have been cut from a magazine, not just in quality but in the staging too. Absolutely fascinating and mesmerizing! Between the pictures and the narration this an awesome journey for many of us!

Absolutely love this one!

[salemj]

This latest post was really one of the most impressive to me in terms of the photos—amazing success rate! Perhaps the overcast lighting freed you up a little bit, as I really find the composition and emotion in most of the pics to be dynamic and moving especially as trip memorabilia (not that your other pictures are terrific, but I think you know I'm trying to give a complement here!). I love the large wooden cat!

I was watching that cheesy Netflix show on Japanese culture and I remember learning about the cedar balls. Apparently the green versus dry is supposed to connote how "new" the batch of sake is, although I'd guess that not every shop keeps up this tradition. It was cool to read about it in action!

[pd7077]

Steve so many of your pictures have the look as if they could have been cut from a magazine, not just in quality but in the staging too. Absolutely fascinating and mesmerizing! Between the pictures and the narration this an awesome journey for many of us!

Absolutely love this one!

Thanks Jeff. That’s actually one of my favorite pics that I took during the trip. I feel deep into photography because it made me see the world in a different light. I began to notice things that I would have otherwise overlooked, and I often find beauty in things that I used to consider as ordinary. Seeing the world through a lens can be truly eye-opening!

This latest post was really one of the most impressive to me in terms of the photos—amazing success rate! Perhaps the overcast lighting freed you up a little bit, as I really find the composition and emotion in most of the pics to be dynamic and moving especially as trip memorabilia (not that your other pictures are terrific, but I think you know I'm trying to give a complement here!). I love the large wooden cat!

I was watching that cheesy Netflix show on Japanese culture and I remember learning about the cedar balls. Apparently the green versus dry is supposed to connote how "new" the batch of sake is, although I'd guess that not every shop keeps up this tradition. It was cool to read about it in action!

Most of the breweries did have the dry cedar balls, but I did notice a handful with fresh/green cedar balls. I wasn’t really a huge sake fan before the trip, but we tried so many different varieties that I am beginning to appreciate sake a lot more.

[pd7077]

I hope everyone had a nice Christmas! I had to take a bit of a break because my in-laws were in town for the holidays, but time for me to get back at it...

Dinner as Wa No Sato was another masterpiece, the main dish being shabu shabu featuring A5 Hida beef. This time we were seated in the main dining room, which was a nice change of pace because it felt a little bit more informal. Thankfully, the amount of food didn’t make me feel like too much of a glutton, and my stomach was grateful.





We retired early for the night to prepare for the short trek to Kyoto the following day. The next morning, we had a light breakfast and made our way over to the train station. The trip was an easy 2-1/2 hour ride with a quick transfer at Nagoya station. Our guide was waiting for us on the train platform when we arrived in Kyoto. Since the plan was for her to take us to a few scenic places, she arranged to have our carry-on bags brought to the hotel for us. The train station was a madhouse, and it seemed even nuttier than Tokyo. Apparently, our stay in Kyoto coincided with one of their busiest times of the year. We hopped onto a train towards Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, which was thankfully only a 15min ride because I was starting to feel like a sardine

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is one of the most popular sights to visit, and there was no shortage of people. It made me feel like we were back in Harujuku except that it was 10 times larger with even more people. As beautiful at the bamboo grove was, the sheer number of people made it a bit unenjoyable. Later that day, our hotel concierge mentioned that it’s best to go to sights like that early in the morning so that we could beat the crowds. That tip came in handy over then next few days. There are a several shrines and temples located within the bamboo grove path. We stopped over at the Nonomiya Shrine, which is where the “god of matchmaking” is enshrined. People go there to write on wooden tablets and wish for good luck in marriage.





Tenryu-ji Temple is also located on the path, but there were just too many people for us to want to go check it out. We hiked up to the very top of the hill to see the view of the Katsura River below, and then we went down to the main street to have some snacks. I’m not sure if it was the amount of people, the number of activities we had over the past week, the morning travel, or a combination of everything...but the wife and I didn’t feel like doing much more walking. Our guide was a bit disappointed because she wanted to take us to a few more places, but she could see how tired we were and gladly took us to our hotel.

We stayed at the Four Seasons, which is in the east side of Kyoto. I was curious about the hotel because it was formerly a hospital that closed down. The property was known to have a gorgeous garden, and a concerted effort was made to preserve it when the building was converted to a hotel. As fantastic as the room was, it was not much different than any other box hotel...but the view from our room was spectacular.



After settling in, we dicided to go down to watch the geisha & maiko dance performance that the hotel was putting on.





To be continued...

[nakneker]

The bamboo grove pics remind me of the movie “Crouching Tiger hidden Dragon”, one of my favs btw. Nicely done!