Inaugural Post on Discussing Technique!

Proper user technique and care is essential to enjoying these high performance knives to their fullest while keeping edge damage to a minimum. Learn how here.
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salemj
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Inaugural Post on Discussing Technique!

Post by salemj »

I thought I'd get this thread started with some personal thoughts on knife technique.

There are a zillion ways to cut.

Instead of focusing on proper ways to cut, I want to draw attention to how we talk about cutting, since talking about cutting is more relevant to how we talk about and recommend knives on the forum.

To me, the two most important things about discussing technique are 1) how hard you drive into the board (vertical motion) versus how much you “slice” in any given motion (lateral motion), and 2) your stature. After these, the third essential (but also more ambiguous) consideration is how you move the edge along the board. I’ll discuss each of these in turn.

Point 1: When it comes to deciding what type of knife fits a given technique, an important question is how hard you drive the knife vertically versus laterally. For example:
I chop” probably refers to a mostly vertical cut that rebounds off the board, sometimes using the arm rather than the wrist.
I push cut” or “I pull cut” combines a vertical motion with a slight lateral one, using a bit more of the “teeth” of the knife to assist in the cut.
I rock” implies that you push cut, but while keeping the belly on the board.
I rock and roll” might imply that you “mince,” or that, when you rock, you also rotate the knife on the board like a sweeping second hand along a clock face.
I slice” implies much more lateral force than vertical force.
And so on.

With all of these motions, you should have a sense of how much downward force goes into the board. For example, with a very sharp knife, it is possible to mince (or “rock and roll”) with virtually no downforce “into the board,” but it is also possible to really mash the knife into the board, especially with the “free” hand on the spine of the knife. A lot of this depends on carryover from German knives, where people are used to laying a hand on the spine and “pushing down” to steady the blade and rock the blade, which is frankly unnecessary with a sharper knife (one still steadies the blade, but this can be done with very little force, really). Similarly, one can rock while gliding the belly back and forth into the board, pushing the tip forward and pulling it back a bit with each roll (more of a push cut, which constantly wears the edge), or one can also rock by using more of an up and down motion at the handle (more of a chopping motion with a consistent fulcrum), which might save the edge near the belly (and also save the board), but it is less comfortable or proper rocking motion.

Again, when one chops or push cuts, the goal can either be to (just) get through the food, or to follow-through into the board. Like drumming, you can focus on the point of attack being at the drum head, or you can think of hitting down into the head and feeling the rebound for the next hit. For me, the difference between these results in more or less sound: when I push cut or chop, there is usually minimal sound from the board, but if I use a heavier knife and really “go at it,” I sound like one of Knife Fanatics old videos.

In virtually all cases, if you follow-through into the board more, or if you use more weight to steady the knife, AND if you use heavier knives to begin with, you are likely putting your edge into the board material with a lot more force and consistency than people who use less downward force. This means you can probably cut faster, with more rebound, AND with a duller edge, but it also means that you edges probably dull faster. In my experience, it probably also means you value separation more than grace or glide in your cuts. I tend to think that people who really enjoy low grinds tend to cut with a bit more board force, and that those who prefer lasers tend to use less board force and more lateral motions.

Since these kinds of cuts are not common in traditional Japanese cuisine (where slicing or methodical cuts are much more common and where dozens of specialty knives are designed for cutting more stubborn ingredients), it makes sense that one needs to be a little more careful when using Western cuisine techniques with the harder, thinner edges of more traditional Japanese knives.

Second: stature.

The real issue with stature isn’t force, it is the type of force. Standard counter heights mean that once you hit about 5’6” or shorter and use a thick cutting board, you get very limited in your technique possibilities. The same can be said for reaching (above) a certain height, although I don’t know what this height is.

The key here is how much WRIST you use versus how much ARM, as well as whether you use any shoulder. The big variable here is whether your elbow is below your wrist when you hold the knife. If it is, you are very limited in how you can use your wrist (and your elbow). The inverse is true if you are tall: if you elbow is far above your wrist, you are very limited in how you can use your arm.

As with drumming, your wrist and arm work together. Your wrist often “finesses” the motion of your arm: your arm provides a natural “weighted” force, and your wrist converts this natural weight and momentum into a directed motion. The shorter you are, the more awkward this conversion can be—most shorter people probably have lighter techniques that use less arm motion/weight and more wrist motion (or, put another way, they use their wrist as the primary fulcrum). Taller people might use their elbow more as the primary fulcrum, while using their wrist to control the angle of attack but little else. This is all significant because if you use a lot of arm weight or motion, your cuts have more weight behind them, with more inertia and follow-through (and probably more weight into the board, but not necessarily); it also means that if you are shorter, you have fewer options as to what is comfortable and what your realistic range of motion is, as well as how easily you can “drive” the knife into harder ingredients with vertical cuts. All of these affect what kinds of knives will feel more or less graceful (or more or less effective) with hard ingredients in particular.

Point 3: Edge contact.

When people talk about changing one’s technique for Japanese knives, they are usually referring to two things: 1) WHAT you cut (no frozen foods, no bone, no mystery meats that may have unpredictable bone placements, like a pork shoulder, ribs, or some birds); and 2) HOW you move your edge on the board.

#1 is easy: don’t cut things that seem risky and always use the appropriate knife for the task. I cut plenty of hard things with lasers…but it doesn’t feel risky (anymore) because I’ve learned how to approach these cuts with balance and confidence. These things just take time: getting used to the new tools and their limits. Don’t rush it.

#2 is harder: it is natural to use the weight of softer, heavier knives to work into the board, and it is also “necessary” when you are working with edges that are less than super-sharp: the added weight and the rocking motions compensate for the quality of the edge. However, using these motions with a sharper, thinner, harder Japanese blade can be very bad for a knife. This is because these knives are more delicate and more susceptible to chipping. As you use more force into the board and stay in contact with the board, the knife edge digs into the board; then, as your rotate around the board or move the knife to different positions (while staying in contact with the board or still applying weight or pressure), you risk “torquing” the blade, when parts of the edge are still stuck in the board as you “sweep” the knife across the board while mincing or rocking.

So, one aspect of transitioning to Japanese knives is easy: don’t cut things that seem risky, don’t cut things when you start to feel the knife flex, etc—just give it time and you’ll develop these aspects of your technique to do these things properly, with confidence (reading the forum helps!). The other is harder: you have to re-learn how much force you put into your cutting board with all cuts, both to save your nice, sharp edges, but also to avoid micro-chipping or other possible damage to your knife (and your board!).

The key to all of these is just knowing how much downward force you are using at all times, and where it is coming from (your arm, your wrist, or your free hand on the spine of the knife). Approaching technique in this way, rather than merely thinking about the type of cut, should make you much more aware of your personal preferences, as well as what kinds of knives (and especially grinds) best suit your needs.
~Joe

Comments: I'm short, a home cook, prefer lighter, thinner blades, and own mostly Konosukes but have used over a dozen brands.
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Re: Inaugural Post on Discussing Technique!

Post by cjmeik »

Nice, Joe. I see a "sticky" in your future! ;)
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Re: Inaugural Post on Discussing Technique!

Post by jprezfe »

Great post!!!
salemj
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Re: Inaugural Post on Discussing Technique!

Post by salemj »

Thanks for the positive feedback! I didn't think too hard about it, but I did try to cover the basics. Hopefully it proves useful to newer users.
~Joe

Comments: I'm short, a home cook, prefer lighter, thinner blades, and own mostly Konosukes but have used over a dozen brands.
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Re: Inaugural Post on Discussing Technique!

Post by jmcnelly85 »

Awesome start to a surprisingly intricate topic. Definitely sticky worthy. The only thing I might add is posture. I might sound like a broken record to folks who've been around the forum a while, as well as to green coworkers of mine, but it's something that really changed me from slowly struggling through a prep list to relaxing while I speed through a dozen gallons of assorted vegetables. Plus, if this becomes a sticky I might not have to type this out on my phone five more times.

Good technique starts with proper posture. Keeping a straight back with your elbows forms the basis for safe cutting with nearly all techniques. Envision a snow plow as you approach food in an X shape, your guide hand will naturally curl itself to avoid the edge, (avoid uncomfortable chicken arms, if it's not comfortable, stop) and more of the knife will fit into the board. Every technique is a tight, concise motion that becomes easily repeatable as long as you establish a comfortable starting point. Move less, cut more.
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Re: Inaugural Post on Discussing Technique!

Post by ared715 »

Brilliant insight! I know these guidelines will help everyone understand a said topic much more in depth and also increase the ability to help people with questions they may have. It seems to me that the generalization of terms in regards to cutting styles, creates some confusion within a topic and these guidelines, if followed, will allow individuals to help others more in depth and more accurately! Again, great write up and I hope people will read this thread as it is a wealth of information in itself! Thanks for the clarification!
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Re: Inaugural Post on Discussing Technique!

Post by Radar53 »

Hi Joe,

+1 as a sticky. Thanks for reviving this topic in the new forum. My technique is rubbish so I'm all eyes & ears. jmcnelly85, I'm a great believer in posture for all manner of things (windsurfing, mountain biking, white water kayaking etc), but I've only dabbled with this for cutting. Posture is the foundation from which actions can be efficiently & effectively made, so I need to go find your posts in the old forum.
Cheers Grant

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Re: Inaugural Post on Discussing Technique!

Post by jmcnelly85 »

Elbows in*
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Mawgie
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Re: Inaugural Post on Discussing Technique!

Post by Mawgie »

Great input regarding posture. I have been focusing on grip, motion, and the look of my output, but will now pay close attention to my posture, too. Thanks.
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Re: Inaugural Post on Discussing Technique!

Post by matchplay18 »

Really nice post Makes me realize I need some work on my technique.
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Re: Inaugural Post on Discussing Technique!

Post by Altadan »

Excellent read.

I remember all too well using my left hand on the spine of my Shun Premier 8" (very German profile) to mince, and how every time I'd see that twisted (or worse, micro-chipped) piece on the belly. After three times I changed my technique.
Then, more recently, noticing how loud my wife's cuts are, I watched her do a sort of static-chop-down. A push cut, but without the lateral motion. Her cuts seemed (and sounded) harsh and over-fatiguing. I then checked my own technique and moved more and more towards slicing-lateral motions whenever I push\pulled cuts, allowing the edge to do more of the work. It did wonders! Though it is slower, in a home environment I've plenty of time to enjoy the silent sssssssspt of a very sharp edge, as well as getting a better feel for the geometry and distal taper of the knife.

Thanks for the write up, Joe.
“If we conquer our passions it is more from their weakness than from our strength.”
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