Master List of Perma Soaking Stones

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Re: Master List of Perma Soaking Stones

Post by studio398 »

i have been soaking the Kohetsu 2k for about a year now. no problems and i really like it, nice and creamy but cuts fast. how about the Kohetsu 3k (also called the Yahiko True Grit 3000)? just bought it but haven't received it yet. it is a bit of a different stone from the Kohetsu 2k. i would like to try perma soaking the Kohetsu 3k, can it be permasoaked? thank you...
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Re: Master List of Perma Soaking Stones

Post by ahanson »

Could the Imanishi combo stone be permasoaked?
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Re: Master List of Perma Soaking Stones

Post by Mike9 »

I soak three, a corse(ish) green one, Gesshin 400 and a Beston 500. Naniwa Chosera 3k and King 6k are splash and go. Everything else I wait till the bubbles stop then proceed. I find the Beston best for lower treated steels on EDC and field knives that don't go much past 500 anyway.
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Re: Master List of Perma Soaking Stones

Post by jacko9 »

I read a post by Jon from JKI about the different binders used in synthetic stones both socking and drying. It was pretty interesting and it might be posted on his store site?

Jon wrote with reference to Kitayama stones and others;

it effects it like all resinoid based stones... excuse the copy and paste, but this might help:

Resinoid based stones respond to soaking and drying differently from ceramic, clay based, and magnesia based stones. Magnesia based stones, like the chocera, will crack when over-soaked due to magnesia (the binding agent) leaching out in the water. After a while, the stone looses structural stability. Clay based and ceramic stones do not have any cracking problems unless dropped (or sometimes when they are worn thin and you exert too much pressure in an unsupported section). Vitrified stones work in a similar way to the ceramic and clay based stones, but are often less firm and can break more easily when dropped and/or worn too thin. Resinoid based stones, like the gesshin synthetic natural, 5000, and 6000 respond to soaking differently. The soaking is actually not the issue at all. Soaking helps soften the stone, causing it to release more abrasive more quickly, improving tactile feedback, and helping create more mud. However, repeated soaking and drying, drying too quickly, or changes in humidity based on environment cause the stone to dry out unevenly. Because resinoid based stones are not as porous, air can not penetrate as quickly, nor can water escape in the same way. As water leaves the outer portion of the stone, the loss of mass causes the outside of the stone to shrink faster than the inside of the stone, which is the main cause of cracking with stones like this. Therefore, when it comes to resinoid based stones, you need to pick one of the following ways of dealing with them:
soak permanently
use as a splash and go stone
soak and dry, but dry very carefully and slowly, while paying attention to general humidity
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