What grit/stone to use to remove micro chips

[dafox]

Have my first micro chip
I have a Chosera 800 and a Suehro Rica 5000, thinking about buying a Chosera 400 for micro chip removal and sharpening my old stainless steel knives.
Recommendations?

[Kit Craft]

Have my first micro chip
I have a Chosera 800 and a Suehro Rica 5000, thinking about buying a Chosera 400 for micro chip removal and sharpening my old stainless steel knives.
Recommendations?

You should be able to do it with the Cho 800. Micro chips are tiny and come out with regular sharpening. Sure, the 400 would make it go faster, though. It is good to have a stone in that range as well.

An alternative would be a Shapton Glass 500, which I find to be a more aggressive cutter. I like both stones well enough that I keep both of them. For thinning I prefer the Suehiro Cerax 320.

[jacko9]

I have used 1000 grit on the few occasions to restore the edge from microchips. I don't like removing any more steel than necessary as long as it's not too time consuming.

[gladius]

Unless it is causing you a problem with cutting, just leave it and address it at the next sharpening and the 800 should easily be able to remove them.

[dafox]

Have my first micro chip
I have a Chosera 800 and a Suehro Rica 5000, thinking about buying a Chosera 400 for micro chip removal and sharpening my old stainless steel knives.
Recommendations?

You should be able to do it with the Cho 800. Micro chips are tiny and come out with regular sharpening. Sure, the 400 would make it go faster, though. It is good to have a stone in that range as well.

An alternative would be a Shapton Glass 500, which I find to be a more aggressive cutter. I like both stones well enough that I keep both of them. For thinning I prefer the Suehiro Cerax 320.

Thanks,
Glad to know I can use my mid grit stone, I will do that. What would you recommend i use for starters with dull German knives?

[dafox]

I have used 1000 grit on the few occasions to restore the edge from microchips. I don't like removing any more steel than necessary as long as it's not too time consuming.

Thanks

[dafox]

Unless it is causing you a problem with cutting, just leave it and address it at the next sharpening and the 800 should easily be able to remove them.

Thanks, glad a microchip is not the end of the world, don't notice it in use. How do most of vthe micro chips occur in your knives?

[Kit Craft]

Have my first micro chip
I have a Chosera 800 and a Suehro Rica 5000, thinking about buying a Chosera 400 for micro chip removal and sharpening my old stainless steel knives.
Recommendations?

You should be able to do it with the Cho 800. Micro chips are tiny and come out with regular sharpening. Sure, the 400 would make it go faster, though. It is good to have a stone in that range as well.

An alternative would be a Shapton Glass 500, which I find to be a more aggressive cutter. I like both stones well enough that I keep both of them. For thinning I prefer the Suehiro Cerax 320.

Thanks,
Glad to know I can use my mid grit stone, I will do that. What would you recommend i use for starters with dull German knives?

That would depend on how much metal needs be removed. I typically use either my Suehiro Cerax 320 or Shapton glass 320 if they are fairly neglected but are not in need of repair. I do not work on a lot of these knives and mostly sharpen for myself, though. One of these other guys probably can give you a better idea.

[dafox]

You should be able to do it with the Cho 800. Micro chips are tiny and come out with regular sharpening. Sure, the 400 would make it go faster, though. It is good to have a stone in that range as well.

An alternative would be a Shapton Glass 500, which I find to be a more aggressive cutter. I like both stones well enough that I keep both of them. For thinning I prefer the Suehiro Cerax 320.

Thanks,
Glad to know I can use my mid grit stone, I will do that. What would you recommend i use for starters with dull German knives?

That would depend on how much metal needs be removed. I typically use either my Suehiro Cerax 320 or Shapton glass 320 if they are fairly neglected but are not in need of repair. I do not work on a lot of these knives and mostly sharpen for myself, though. One of these other guys probably can give you a better idea.

Thanks, I was thinking of getting a Chosera 400 but perhaps something around 320 would be a better choice for a low grit stone to go with my Cho 800.

[Kit Craft]

Thanks,
Glad to know I can use my mid grit stone, I will do that. What would you recommend i use for starters with dull German knives?

That would depend on how much metal needs be removed. I typically use either my Suehiro Cerax 320 or Shapton glass 320 if they are fairly neglected but are not in need of repair. I do not work on a lot of these knives and mostly sharpen for myself, though. One of these other guys probably can give you a better idea.

Thanks, I was thinking of getting a Chosera 400 but perhaps something around 320 would be a better choice for a low grit stone to go with my Cho 800.

Stone choice is very personal, or so I have come to believe after being on here for awhile. It is hard for me to judge what others need but I can tell you what I like about a set of stones and maybe that will be of some aid.

I used to use Chosera 400/800/3000 and for a very long time was happy with that. However, when compared to other stone brands I feel that these are closer to 600/1200/4000. Which is not a bad thing at all but I do find the chosera 400 to be under powered. I use it almost like a beefed up 1k. I use the shapton glass similarly but I do feel it cuts a wee bit faster.

320 stones that I have or have had are as follows.

320 shapton pro: A good stone but I like it better for harder carbon and less so for soft stainless. I don't know why but it feels not to work as well. It still works well but I am picky.

320 shapton glass: I love this stone but some others seem not to. It is gritty in feel but not awful. It is aggressive but not hugely. I find this a good stone if you do not have to do major repairs.

Cerax 320: This stone is great for thinning but it wears as fast as it cuts! It feels great in use, leave decent contrast and a smother finish than you would expect. It does require a soak. It is okay for narrow double bevels but I prefer the shapton for that.

Nubatama platinum 320: This is a great stone, aggressive, leaves a good finish. It does require soaking and it is very, very hard. It takes good angle control. It is also pricey.

If I could only have one? That is a tough call but realistically it would be the Shapton Glass and that is saying a lot coming from me, who typically hates SG stones.

That is the extent of experience I have with 320 grit stones.

Honestly though, you could get by with the 400 or the 500 if you have the 140 diamond plate for major(ish) repairs that do not require a belt grinder. Or at least that has been my experience. It is not often that I need to go below 500 grit and even that is most often not needed.

[dafox]

That would depend on how much metal needs be removed. I typically use either my Suehiro Cerax 320 or Shapton glass 320 if they are fairly neglected but are not in need of repair. I do not work on a lot of these knives and mostly sharpen for myself, though. One of these other guys probably can give you a better idea.

Thanks, I was thinking of getting a Chosera 400 but perhaps something around 320 would be a better choice for a low grit stone to go with my Cho 800.

Stone choice is very personal, or so I have come to believe after being on here for awhile. It is hard for me to judge what others need but I can tell you what I like about a set of stones and maybe that will be of some aid.

I used to use Chosera 400/800/3000 and for a very long time was happy with that. However, when compared to other stone brands I feel that these are closer to 600/1200/4000. Which is not a bad thing at all but I do find the chosera 400 to be under powered. I use it almost like a beefed up 1k. I use the shapton glass similarly but I do feel it cuts a wee bit faster.

320 stones that I have or have had are as follows.

320 shapton pro: A good stone but I like it better for harder carbon and less so for soft stainless. I don't know why but it feels not to work as well. It still works well but I am picky.

320 shapton glass: I love this stone but some others seem not to. It is gritty in feel but not awful. It is aggressive but not hugely. I find this a good stone if you do not have to do major repairs.

Cerax 320: This stone is great for thinning but it wears as fast as it cuts! It feels great in use, leave decent contrast and a smother finish than you would expect. It does require a soak. It is okay for narrow double bevels but I prefer the shapton for that.

Nubatama platinum 320: This is a great stone, aggressive, leaves a good finish. It does require soaking and it is very, very hard. It takes good angle control. It is also pricey.

If I could only have one? That is a tough call but realistically it would be the Shapton Glass and that is saying a lot coming from me, who typically hates SG stones.

That is the extent of experience I have with 320 grit stones.

Honestly though, you could get by with the 400 or the 500 if you have the 140 diamond plate for major(ish) repairs that do not require a belt grinder. Or at least that has been my experience. It is not often that I need to go below 500 grit and even that is most often not needed.

Wow, thank you for your insights!
Will take me a bit to process.
Was thinking of getting a Chi 400, but probably won't now, need a bit more cutting power.
The Cerax 320 is my choice for now, I don't want something too aggressive yet as I'm a beginner and I like that it is thick, I can use it as is without a holder- can't have the rubber smell in my house due to allergies.

[gladius]

What would you recommend i use for starters with dull German knives?...
I was thinking of getting a Chosera 400 but perhaps something around 320 would be a better choice for a low grit stone to go with my Cho 800.

----------

For very dull knives I use diamond plates, they are fast and flat so you form a well shaped bevel with minimal effort and mess. I use the DMT XXC 120 grit and follow with an Atoma 400 grit. From here I transition to waterstones.

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/dmtextracoarse.html

[Kit Craft]

Thanks, I was thinking of getting a Chosera 400 but perhaps something around 320 would be a better choice for a low grit stone to go with my Cho 800.

Stone choice is very personal, or so I have come to believe after being on here for awhile. It is hard for me to judge what others need but I can tell you what I like about a set of stones and maybe that will be of some aid.

I used to use Chosera 400/800/3000 and for a very long time was happy with that. However, when compared to other stone brands I feel that these are closer to 600/1200/4000. Which is not a bad thing at all but I do find the chosera 400 to be under powered. I use it almost like a beefed up 1k. I use the shapton glass similarly but I do feel it cuts a wee bit faster.

320 stones that I have or have had are as follows.

320 shapton pro: A good stone but I like it better for harder carbon and less so for soft stainless. I don't know why but it feels not to work as well. It still works well but I am picky.

320 shapton glass: I love this stone but some others seem not to. It is gritty in feel but not awful. It is aggressive but not hugely. I find this a good stone if you do not have to do major repairs.

Cerax 320: This stone is great for thinning but it wears as fast as it cuts! It feels great in use, leave decent contrast and a smother finish than you would expect. It does require a soak. It is okay for narrow double bevels but I prefer the shapton for that.

Nubatama platinum 320: This is a great stone, aggressive, leaves a good finish. It does require soaking and it is very, very hard. It takes good angle control. It is also pricey.

If I could only have one? That is a tough call but realistically it would be the Shapton Glass and that is saying a lot coming from me, who typically hates SG stones.

That is the extent of experience I have with 320 grit stones.

Honestly though, you could get by with the 400 or the 500 if you have the 140 diamond plate for major(ish) repairs that do not require a belt grinder. Or at least that has been my experience. It is not often that I need to go below 500 grit and even that is most often not needed.

Wow, thank you for your insights!
Will take me a bit to process.
Was thinking of getting a Chi 400, but probably won't now, need a bit more cutting power.
The Cerax 320 is my choice for now, I don't want something too aggressive yet as I'm a beginner and I like that it is thick, I can use it as is without a holder- can't have the rubber smell in my house due to allergies.

You can get a metal stone bridge if you prefer but they are pricey. You can make one out of a 2x4 too. Don't let the false economy of a thick stone sway you, they are thick for a reason and that is because they wear fast.

As for being too aggressive, I of am the opinion that people over play that card. I along with many others learned on much coarser stones such as a Norton coarse India. It really is not as easy as people think to screw up a blade to the point where it can not be repaired unless you are blatantly trying too. Or at least that has been my experience. A little common sense goes a long, long way. Regardless, 320 stones are what I would call medium coarse and I like that range a lot. Not too coarse and not too fine. You will get a burr quickly and that is less likely to lead to frustration.

Remember, this is just my opinion. Don't forget to take other opinions as well. I am but a fledgling compared to many if not most here.

[dafox]

What would you recommend i use for starters with dull German knives?...
I was thinking of getting a Chosera 400 but perhaps something around 320 would be a better choice for a low grit stone to go with my Cho 800.

----------

For very dull knives I use diamond plates, they are fast and flat so you form a well shaped bevel with minimal effort and mess. I use the DMT XXC 120 grit and follow with an Atoma 400 grit. From here I transition to waterstones.

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/dmtextracoarse.html

Thanks. I have a 400 plate now, am planning to get a corser one in the future to flatten my corser stones and for the purpose you mentioned.

[dafox]

Stone choice is very personal, or so I have come to believe after being on here for awhile. It is hard for me to judge what others need but I can tell you what I like about a set of stones and maybe that will be of some aid.

I used to use Chosera 400/800/3000 and for a very long time was happy with that. However, when compared to other stone brands I feel that these are closer to 600/1200/4000. Which is not a bad thing at all but I do find the chosera 400 to be under powered. I use it almost like a beefed up 1k. I use the shapton glass similarly but I do feel it cuts a wee bit faster.

320 stones that I have or have had are as follows.

320 shapton pro: A good stone but I like it better for harder carbon and less so for soft stainless. I don't know why but it feels not to work as well. It still works well but I am picky.

320 shapton glass: I love this stone but some others seem not to. It is gritty in feel but not awful. It is aggressive but not hugely. I find this a good stone if you do not have to do major repairs.

Cerax 320: This stone is great for thinning but it wears as fast as it cuts! It feels great in use, leave decent contrast and a smother finish than you would expect. It does require a soak. It is okay for narrow double bevels but I prefer the shapton for that.

Nubatama platinum 320: This is a great stone, aggressive, leaves a good finish. It does require soaking and it is very, very hard. It takes good angle control. It is also pricey.

If I could only have one? That is a tough call but realistically it would be the Shapton Glass and that is saying a lot coming from me, who typically hates SG stones.

That is the extent of experience I have with 320 grit stones.

Honestly though, you could get by with the 400 or the 500 if you have the 140 diamond plate for major(ish) repairs that do not require a belt grinder. Or at least that has been my experience. It is not often that I need to go below 500 grit and even that is most often not needed.

Wow, thank you for your insights!
Will take me a bit to process.
Was thinking of getting a Chi 400, but probably won't now, need a bit more cutting power.
The Cerax 320 is my choice for now, I don't want something too aggressive yet as I'm a beginner and I like that it is thick, I can use it as is without a holder- can't have the rubber smell in my house due to allergies.

You can get a metal stone bridge if you prefer but they are pricey. You can make one out of a 2x4 too. Don't let the false economy of a thick stone sway you, they are thick for a reason and that is because they wear fast.

As for being too aggressive, I of am the opinion that people over play that card. I along with many others learned on much coarser stones such as a Norton coarse India. It really is not as easy as people think to screw up a blade to the point where it can not be repaired unless you are blatantly trying too. Or at least that has been my experience. A little common sense goes a long, long way. Regardless, 320 stones are what I would call medium coarse and I like that range a lot. Not too coarse and not too fine. You will get a burr quickly and that is less likely to lead to frustration.

Remember, this is just my opinion. Don't forget to take other opinions as well. I am but a fledgling compared to many if not most here.

Thank you Kit, appreciate your help.

[Kit Craft]

Thank you Kit, appreciate your help.

No problem, happy to help when I can.

[shevitz]

I baby my blades and get microchips, particularly in my TF and Moritaka (RC65 supposedly, both). Any sharpening progression will take them out.

I sharpened a friends nakiri. The father used it on chicken bones. Those were like 1mm chips. My chosera 400 worked just fine. I just sharpened until they came out. No special skills were required. I also have a Nub 150 which is much more aggressive. It would have done the job as well, but the chosera is more pleasant to use. I wouldn't use a diamond plate unless the chip is huge. The diamond scratches can be hard to take out.

Other people have more experience but that's my .02

[gladius]

The diamond scratches can be hard to take out.
Other people have more experience but that's my .02

-------
Especially if they are from a coarse grit but a finer grit diamond plate removes them just fine and it is easier to transition to waterstone from a finer grit.

[Kit Craft]

I baby my blades and get microchips, particularly in my TF and Moritaka (RC65 supposedly, both). Any sharpening progression will take them out.

I sharpened a friends nakiri. The father used it on chicken bones. Those were like 1mm chips. My chosera 400 worked just fine. I just sharpened until they came out. No special skills were required. I also have a Nub 150 which is much more aggressive. It would have done the job as well, but the chosera is more pleasant to use. I wouldn't use a diamond plate unless the chip is huge. The diamond scratches can be hard to take out.

Other people have more experience but that's my .02

Yep! I have a 3-4mm long 1mm+/- deep chip on my Yuki and I won't drop down to take that out either. It will eventually go away. It does not suffer when cutting. I have just learned that if we are having a get together and having a few drinks I use my FKH for prep!

[dafox]

I baby my blades and get microchips, particularly in my TF and Moritaka (RC65 supposedly, both). Any sharpening progression will take them out.

I sharpened a friends nakiri. The father used it on chicken bones. Those were like 1mm chips. My chosera 400 worked just fine. I just sharpened until they came out. No special skills were required. I also have a Nub 150 which is much more aggressive. It would have done the job as well, but the chosera is more pleasant to use. I wouldn't use a diamond plate unless the chip is huge. The diamond scratches can be hard to take out.

Other people have more experience but that's my .02

Thanks, just what I need to hear.