Do you need special equipment to sharpen high carbide steels?

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ken123
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Re: Do you need special equipment to sharpen high carbide steels?

Post by ken123 »

test18258 wrote: Tue Nov 07, 2017 9:40 am Actually thats the video that inspired me to ask this question.
Since I dont have any high grit diamond stones I was wondering how much of an issue the carbide tear out is. He only finished the knife on a spyderco ultra fine.
Thats also why im trying to figure out if its worth getting some higher grit diamond stones (600 and 1200) Because I will probably be getting more knives in the future that have these super carbide laden steels.

Well this one is going to require some careful dissection to eliminate some underlying confusion.

When you say, "He only finished the knife on a spyderco ultra fine.", this is incorrect. The ultra fine stone (UF) is NOT his finishing point at all, He goes WELL past this. The UF is typically rated at 3 microns which is ~ 6k grit. The point of the video is that he tries two sequences - one all diamond and another where he uses the UF in the middle of his sequence. Indeed he takes it WELL past 6k, past 1 micron (16k) past 0.1 micron (160k) and all the way up to 0.005 microns which is 3,200k or 3.2 million grit. This rather thoroughly dispels the notion that these very abrasion resistant steels should only be used at coarser grits. Indeed because they are so abrasion resistant, it becomes worthwhile to go to much greater refinement levels - 3.2 million grit in this video.

An important point is that whether the surface being used is a stone, diamond plate or film or strop is really of little concern compared to the abrasives used. Yes there are differences, but they are minor compared to the abrasive being used.

Carbide fallout. If you abrade a steel with carbides harder than the abrasive, the only way you get to deal with the carbides is by having them fall out, with the surrounding matrix being eroded and the carbides not being eroded and eventually lacking enough support to remain in place. This really is not dependent on carbide size (or abrasive size or the ratio of the two), but by the difference in hardness between the surrounding matrix and the harder carbides in the steel. Once the abrasive carbides become smaller than the steel carbides you are now abrading the surface of the carbides and refining the geometry of the carbides to conform with the overall geometry of the edge rather than just falling out.

So if you are dealing with very abrasion resistant steels, you should use an abrasive sufficiently hard enough (on the Mohs hardness scale) to go through the carbides from start to finish. There is no disadvantage to doing this. Once you start out with coarse abrasives - eg using diamond plates like a 140 Atoma or even coarser, you just progress to finer abrasives on up as high as you wish. Plates are available from 46 grit to 3000 grit. Past that you can use diamond films (they don't last and I don't recommend them) or strops using CBN or Diamond (preferring polycrystalline diamond over monocrystalline diamond). You have available CBN down to 80 microns (coarser than 250 grit) to 0.1 microns (160k grit), providing you with the ability to go through a full sequence.

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Re: Do you need special equipment to sharpen high carbide steels?

Post by pjwoolw »

test18258 wrote: Wed Nov 08, 2017 1:50 am
pjwoolw wrote: Tue Nov 07, 2017 8:42 pm The tear out stuff is something I believe is overstated and overthought. I'm sure there is truth to it but all the hullabaloo gives me a headache. So I ignore it and sharpen the darn knife.

That being said having the 600 and 1200 diamond plate, presuming Atoma, couldn't hurt. Very versatile items. If one were to concentrate on the end result an investment in high grade CBN and diamond compounds / emulsions / strops would also be great tools. Both ends of the spectrum in other words.
I did notice from the video that he said it seems like its not a big deal, though that was with just finishing on the spyderco ultra fine, In my case its all spydercos and aluminum oxide waterstones beyond the DMT stones for reprofileing. His closing comments of if your just finishing with ceramic its fine is what made me want to know how much of a problem carbide tear out can be in terms of weakening the final edge.

If I was to get some a 600 and 1200 grit diamond stone they would probably be DMT, unless I can find a compelling reason why atoma are enough of an improvement that they are worth spending 60% more each.

Would the 600 or 1200 atoma work as a lapping plate? or would it be too slow? I do have an issue with my current DMT stones sticking really badly when trying to flatten a stone.
Having used both the DMT offerings and Atoma I look at it as bang for the buck. Sure the Atoma is a more expensive product but the accuracy and longevity they provide is well worth it IMHO. The Atoma 600 and 1200 aren't something one would use for flattening.
Pete in San Ramon.
925-548-6967
acmesharpening@gmail.com
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Re: Do you need special equipment to sharpen high carbide steels?

Post by ken123 »

+1 to Pete. I use the 140 Atoma for 80% of my flattening tasks, my. 400 for 10%, and my 46 and 60 grit diamond plates for another. 5% each on my roughest stones or on a badly dished stone. I don't use my 600s and 1200s at all for flattening - just for edge refinement of more abrasion resistant steels.

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Re: Do you need special equipment to sharpen high carbide steels?

Post by ken123 »

You (y'all) might find this interesting where I thin an entire blade of M390 using diamond belts starting at 125 microns and working my way down.



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Re: Do you need special equipment to sharpen high carbide steels?

Post by samuraistuart »

As a user of both DMT and Atoma, I find the Atoma 1200 to be a vastly superior plate than DMTs 1200. DMT 1200 is notorious for feeling like there are larger diamond particles mixed in with the finer diamonds, and this is talked about often by others. My new 1200 DMT (I might add I am using the DiaSharp continuous plates) was so bad about feeling like it was mixed grit, I sent it back to them. They sent a brand new one again...same issue. The Atoma is not like that at all. VERY consistent. Other than that, I wouldn't mind using either DMT or Atoma, but the 1200 (for me) MUST be the Atoma.

I don't use them to lap, so can't speak to that, but would think they would be good for the finer grit stones.
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Re: Do you need special equipment to sharpen high carbide steels?

Post by ken123 »

+1 Stuart
"I don't use them to lap, so can't speak to that, but would think they would be good for the finer grit stones."

I have had a few customers use the 1200 Atoma for lapping but, of all the Atomas, they don't seem to hold up for lapping duty (Still better than DMT 1200). Even for 30k Shaptons, I find a 400 more than adequate for a final texture.

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