My first Jnat has a crack, now what?

[Bensbites]

From what I have seen it is adviseable to support the entire bottom and sides.

Option 1) lacquer bottom and sides, how many coats? Epoxy down to solid, sealed surface.

Option 2). Can I epoxy down to a solid surface and seal the sides with epoxy. This is much faster, I have lots of epoxy, no lacquer.

Other ideas! The bottom is pretty flat.

[old onion]

Ben,
This might be an option to ponder over also and others like Kit or Ken may have a better solution and I am sure Ken has had to deal with this himself.I on the other hand have not but I look at this as a weld repair job that I had to do all to often in order to be 100% ready for State inspection. I would take a 4 inch angle grinder and grind out the crack to a good steel/weld,then I would also have a good groove in which to fill in with a good weld and afterwards grind smooth.I am thinking you can do this same approach with your epoxy.You say your underside is fairly flat so that would then be your sharpening side.Maybe epoxy the side that you repaired to a base for even more added support.When I lacquered my Aizu,I put 6 coats of the Miniwax spray lacquer on the sides and the bottom.Lacquer dries fast so you can add coats like in 30 minutes or so but not if tacky.After three coats,I let those cure for 24 hours and then I added my other three coats,and again ,another 24 hour cure.All came out well and water just beads on the lacquered surface.

[Bensbites]

Thank you OO. I understand the principle of what you are describing, however since the crack goes all the way through the stone, I would basically be breaking the stone and glueing it back together.

I will definitely epoxy this to a solid wooden base. I am debating epoxy vs lacquer, mostly because I have an abundance of epoxy.

[old onion]

In that case,I would consider the epoxy for the bottom,but I still would grind the bottom crack wider then it is so the epoxy would have a good surface to bond to.For the sharpening surface,I don't think I would use epoxy because it may interfere with your sharpening since it is a very hard set.I think I would maybe put a little lacquer in the small crack on the sharpening surface as that will wear away some with sharpening and or flattening.
This is an interesting case and a worthwhile topic.I am wishing others will chime in here for you.

[Kit Craft]

I have had two stones split and asked the same thing. In the end I simply epoxied the thing together and to a wooden base then after I was sure everything was set I lacquered the sides. I know Ken has walked many people through this process, I recall this happening to Jason's Monzen and Ken advising him how to fix it.

As an aside, some fellows take no chances and lacquer and then glue their stones to a base as soon as they get them. Interestingly, I have never had a mid grit split on me (knock wood). (Well, the Amaksua but it came already broken and fixed at the same time.) Sorry for the bad luck but the stone is still perfectly usable.

I know some people even wrap in rice paper and seal or use string. Badger (Otto) has some experience with this, hopefully he sees this thread. I am not a very technical guy and ask for help when these things happen too! I know there was a really good tutorial on how to fix this on the other forum but for the life of me I can not find it! But one guy had a stone break into like 40 pieces and he fixed it!

PS: My Amakusa is cracked all the way through in four places and it is straight epoxied to a rubber/plastic base, as basic as you can get, and it has functioned just fine like this for over two years now. I'd not overthink it. You are gluing a rock to wood. JMO and I am not a rock fixer.

[Bensbites]

@kit, thanks for the advice. The stone is not split, but clearly has a vein that if on its way. The stone was packed pretty well, and arrived in one piece. The crack was visable in the EBay post, and the price was right, so that is not a problem.

I am planning on being proactive. I will seal the bottom and sides, then mount to a solid base. This is a learning experience, but a good one.

[old onion]

As an after thought,do you think wood would be a good base material? Seeing how wood can contract and expand with ambient temperatures and /or humidity,it may cause a stone to actually crack with the movement. I am thinking a good solid plastic base would be the best bet.

[Kalaeb]

This is probably one of the main reasons I have not jumped in the jnat deep end. I would hate to drop coin on a stone that cracked...I know there are ways to fix cracks and inclusions but still sucks.

[Kit Craft]

This is probably one of the main reasons I have not jumped in the jnat deep end. I would hate to drop coin on a stone that cracked...I know there are ways to fix cracks and inclusions but still sucks.

Not any worse than a cracked honyaki. We have seen that thread too! I can fix a cracked stone, or have it fixed easily if I can't. But at the same time, I go for cheap stones so if there is a crack I don't flip out. I know some fellas who buy $1k+ stones. Yeah, I would probably be pissed...

Oh, and Ray, I don't know. Again, not a technical guy. I have had cracked stones, that were fixed before I got them, adhered to wood, plastic and rubber. Never had any issues with any of them but I have only had them for a few years. I do know that it could still crack or even come off of the base after some time. I know that one stone Sin had was listed as re-based do to the epoxy or whatnot giving way after 50+ years and the stone, which was split, came apart again. Stone sold to someone, not me but someone bought it. He put that baby right back on a wood base, fwiw.

Having said that, Sin has "based" a few stones for me at request and they are a plastic/rubber mix. I really, really like them! Plastic base with rubber stoppers and pads like on something like a Rika. If I could buy these bases by the dozen, I would add them to every stone I have both synthetic and natural.

[Bensbites]

As an after thought,do you think wood would be a good base material? Seeing how wood can contract and expand with ambient temperatures and /or humidity,it may cause a stone to actually crack with the movement. I am thinking a good solid plastic base would be the best bet.

If you look at my previous post, I said solid base. I have had some of the same thoughts, and considered plywood, plastic cutting boards, Stainless steel or aluminum as well. I can see pros and cons to each but the reality is, there will be a thick layer of epoxy between the stone and support. Wood seems like a winner because it wil have less flex and be sealed with poly.

[Kit Craft]

As an after thought,do you think wood would be a good base material? Seeing how wood can contract and expand with ambient temperatures and /or humidity,it may cause a stone to actually crack with the movement. I am thinking a good solid plastic base would be the best bet.

If you look at my previous post, I said solid base. I have had some of the same thoughts, and considered plywood, plastic cutting boards, Stainless steel or aluminum as well. I can see pros and cons to each but the reality is, there will be a thick layer of epoxy between the stone and support. Wood seems like a winner because it wil have less flex and be sealed with poly.

You are the wood guy after all! Make a nice base out of some water resistant wood. I like red woods. Hey, this could be the start of something new and everybody sends you their stones for "basing".

Need new shoes for your stone, call Ben.

[nakneker]

I like Kit’s advice. Don’t over think it. Ken is always willing to help too. I hope you let us know what you do and post a picture two f the process.

[gladius]

Many times cracks won't really affect cutting, especially at low/mid grits. Simply glue to wood base and lacquer the sides and you should be fine.

[Kit Craft]

Yep, kind of like dug lines. You can feel them but they don't typically seem to bother the edge of a kitchen knife. At least not on the stones I have used to this point. Typically way too deep to flatten out too.

[Bensbites]

Many times cracks won't really affect cutting, especially at low/mid grits. Simply glue to wood base and lacquer the sides and you should be fine.

Basically this is my thought.

[Bensbites]

You are the wood guy after all! Make a nice base out of some water resistant wood. I like red woods. Hey, this could be the start of something new and everybody sends you their stones for "basing".

Need new shoes for your stone, call Ben.

I was going to make something ugly and utilitarian. Now you have me thinking....

[old onion]

Ok,wood it is.I think I will wood base my Aizu like you Ben. However,by ugly and utilitarian,do you mean like my Clever Block?

[Bensbites]

Ok,wood it is.I think I will wood base my Aizu like you Ben. However,by ugly and utilitarian,do you mean like my Clever Block?

After Kit’s comments I am now thinking of a 12 x 4 x 1.5 inch end grain cutting board from scraps in the shop. Some nice finishing and this could be really fun.

[old onion]

Humm,I still have scraps left from making this cutting board.I think you have something there Ben.

[Bensbites]

Humm,I still have scraps left from making this cutting board.I think you have something there Ben.

Kit deserves some credit for the inspiration as do you. Your comment about movement made me think of a board with glue joints should be more dimensionally stable, especially when sealed.