Flattening

CKTG has a large amount of Edge Pro products so we've dedicated a forum to questions on Edge Pro sharpening systems, accessories and techniques.
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MountainMan23
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Flattening

Post by MountainMan23 »

Hey all!
I was just now flattening some of my Shapton Glass stones for the Edge Pro, and realized something. My stones aren't flattening completely straight. I laid my angle cube on the counter, zeroed it, then laid it on my stones, across the face of them. It read 0.55 on my 500 Grit, and 0.50 on my 1k. When I laid it down the length, it read 0.40 on my 500 grit, and 0.15-0.20 on my 1k. Will this effect the performance of my stones?
Thanks!
gladius
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Re: Flattening

Post by gladius »

What are you using to flatten the stones with?
MountainMan23
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Re: Flattening

Post by MountainMan23 »

gladius wrote: Fri Dec 29, 2017 3:54 pm What are you using to flatten the stones with?
I'm using an 8 Inch Extra Coarse DMT Diasharp.
gladius
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Re: Flattening

Post by gladius »

DMT plates are HAND CERTIFIED for Flatness. The XC Dia-Sharp is not really made for flattening stones, the Dia-Flat plates are. Try measuring the plate with your angle cube.

Are you creating a pencil grid on the stones and completely removing the marks?

...I suspect the surface is flat but not parallel to the base. Edge-Pro recommends turning stones end-over-end often to even the wear, both while using and flattening.

https://youtu.be/8zcytSXHCM0?t=52
Radar53
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Re: Flattening

Post by Radar53 »

Hey there MM, can you please describe your flattening technique in a bit of detail so we can get an appreciation of how you go about it & that will help us in understanding how we might be able to help.

To some degree, EP stones are pretty much self correcting in use, if the slope is side-to-side. End to end slope does create a VERY small angle change, but any concern comes down to just how OCD you are about all this. I did some sums a long time ago, so don't quote me here, but I think that a 1mm difference in thickness end-to-end changed the angle by about one-third of a degree. No big deal in the real world. Just for the record though, I'm pretty OCD!!!!!!!

So probably nothing to panic about, but we might be able to suggest a couple of things to address the cause.
HTH
Cheers Grant

Just because you're not paranoid doesn't mean they're not going to get you!!
Jason H
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Re: Flattening

Post by Jason H »

MountainMan,

Have you tried laying something flat on top the stone and holding it up to the light? A problem I can see placing an angle cube on top of the stone is that it may be telling you the aluminum plate isn’t flat or there may be some variation in the table you are using. I agree with Gladius...draw a grid and remove it. Good luck!
MountainMan23
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Re: Flattening

Post by MountainMan23 »

My DMT plate is level according to the Angle Cube as well.

I've also been using the grid method. It may have been the place where I chose to flatten, across my sink divider. Next flattening session, I'll do it on my counter and see if it has the same problem. I flatten by laying the plate down, and take the stone to it in back and forth and circular motions, until the grid marks are gone, and the whole face is the same color.

I'll also turn the stones end over end, and see if that helps too.
Jason H
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Re: Flattening

Post by Jason H »

MountainMan,

Here is a thread I found very helpful: https://www.chefknivestogoforums.com/vi ... nar#p30580

I hope it helps.
Eversor13
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Re: Flattening

Post by Eversor13 »

Here's what I'm guessing is happening, as you use the stones you're using one side of the stone more than the other. When you go to flatten the stone you end up flattening it flat, but given that you've used one side more than the other, it's flattening it at the angle you're describing.

When you use the edge pro do you try to use the entire length of the stone or do you tend to use one side more than the other (closer or farther away from you). Or, I could be misreading what the problem is and it's not the length that's being sharpened incorrectly. Either way I would think it would help if you make sure to flip the stone every time you use it so that whatever end you use more equals out the wear. Have you been using the same side of the stone towards you each time?
Radar53
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Re: Flattening

Post by Radar53 »

MM, sorry I've been a bit reticent in getting back to this. Here's what I do for what its worth.

I flatten immediately prior to any new sharpening session (& sometimes during a particularly long one),

I use 210X75mm, Atoma diamond plates, which I assume are pretty flat. These are a lot bigger than the EP sized stones. I secure the Atoma plate on the bench, with the long edge going left to right in front of me, wet it and put the “cross hatched” EP stone on top.

I place 8 fingers longitudinally along the EP stone, centrally placed edge to edge and equally distributed down the length. Using Pete Nowlan’s P1 to P2 pressure, so light pressure. I like to let the diamonds do the work! Try not to "rock" the stone in any direction.

1) I will make (say 5 or 10) light strokes backwards & forwards across the Atoma, while moving the stone from end to end of the Atoma plate (to keep the plate wearing evenly) & then check.
2) I rotate the EP stone 180º & repeat (1).
3) I rotate the EP stone 180º again and use (say 5 or 10) large figure “8” strokes & check
4) Rotate the EP stone 180º & repeat (3).
5) Return to 1) as required until the cross-hatching is removed.

Note - you may have to vary this in terms of using uneven pressure at different points of the stone to correct existing unevenness.

HTH
Cheers Grant

Just because you're not paranoid doesn't mean they're not going to get you!!
MountainMan23
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Re: Flattening

Post by MountainMan23 »

Radar53 wrote: Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:15 pm MM, sorry I've been a bit reticent in getting back to this. Here's what I do for what its worth.

I flatten immediately prior to any new sharpening session (& sometimes during a particularly long one),

I use 210X75mm, Atoma diamond plates, which I assume are pretty flat. These are a lot bigger than the EP sized stones. I secure the Atoma plate on the bench, with the long edge going left to right in front of me, wet it and put the “cross hatched” EP stone on top.

I place 8 fingers longitudinally along the EP stone, centrally placed edge to edge and equally distributed down the length. Using Pete Nowlan’s P1 to P2 pressure, so light pressure. I like to let the diamonds do the work! Try not to "rock" the stone in any direction.

1) I will make (say 5 or 10) light strokes backwards & forwards across the Atoma, while moving the stone from end to end of the Atoma plate (to keep the plate wearing evenly) & then check.
2) I rotate the EP stone 180º & repeat (1).
3) I rotate the EP stone 180º again and use (say 5 or 10) large figure “8” strokes & check
4) Rotate the EP stone 180º & repeat (3).
5) Return to 1) as required until the cross-hatching is removed.

Note - you may have to vary this in terms of using uneven pressure at different points of the stone to correct existing unevenness.

HTH
That sounds like it would work very well, I'll start using that method. Thanks!
Radar53
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Re: Flattening

Post by Radar53 »

Cool. Let's know how you get on.
Cheers Grant

Just because you're not paranoid doesn't mean they're not going to get you!!
doulos
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Re: Flattening

Post by doulos »

Ive been flattening with the CKTG 3x8 diamond plate I bought here for a while now. Its pretty worn because i also use it for certain types of broadheads. Is anybody using the stock Edge Pro glass and grit system?
Jason H
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Re: Flattening

Post by Jason H »

doulos wrote: Tue Mar 20, 2018 7:19 pm Ive been flattening with the CKTG 3x8 diamond plate I bought here for a while now. Its pretty worn because i also use it for certain types of broadheads. Is anybody using the stock Edge Pro glass and grit system?
I have used the glass & grit quite a bit and it works well. That being said, I prefer a diamond plate because it is less mess and faster.
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