Steels picky with specific grits.

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mlb1988
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Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by mlb1988 »

Supposedly, we are sharpening stainlessknives, some can take sharp edge at higher grits but most take it at 3000-4000 grit to provide a good bites and refinements, plus good retention on the side. White steel is oddly random... I think is due to HRC: Same goes with Blue/Aogami.

Normally I stop at 6000 Grits, it just fits well and is plenty enough for a kitchen knives.

I am willingly to learn all of your experiences with your knives and how well it cuts.


When I sharpens, I normally skip instead of progression in a small skip. For example: 800(if needed to lightly reshapes) 1200>2000(just enough mud then use as strop>6000. That way I am keeping the tooth I get from lower grits. If I were to do a progression, like 800-1000-2000-3000-4000-6000, I am losing a lot of toothy-edge, I might as well use it as a shaving razor :lol:
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by ChefKnivesToGo »

Yes my typical stone progression is 500-2K-6K and the last stone I do light. A couple stropping strokes and that’s a good edge for a kitchen knife for me.
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by ButlerHoosierChef »

If I need to reshape I use a 500 grit then 2k 6k 8k if I am feeling frisky. I rarely lose my toothyness and it is still hair popping sharp. Some steels take a little more work. Like white 2 that is the easiest I have found to sharpen and get scary sharp. Blue 1 steel definitely takes alot more work to get to the sharp stage and then still doesn't feel scary sharp until you pop the hairs right off of your arm. R2 can be a pain sometimes.
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by mlb1988 »

ChefKnivesToGo wrote: Mon Aug 06, 2018 6:28 pm Yes my typical stone progression is 500-2K-6K and the last stone I do light. A couple stropping strokes and that’s a good edge for a kitchen knife for me.
I am assuming you used Shapton Glass in that grits?
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by mlb1988 »

ButlerHoosierChef wrote: Mon Aug 06, 2018 11:45 pm If I need to reshape I use a 500 grit then 2k 6k 8k if I am feeling frisky. I rarely lose my toothyness and it is still hair popping sharp. Some steels take a little more work. Like white 2 that is the easiest I have found to sharpen and get scary sharp. Blue 1 steel definitely takes alot more work to get to the sharp stage and then still doesn't feel scary sharp until you pop the hairs right off of your arm. R2 can be a pain sometimes.
I thought the R2 is easy to sharpen :shock: I did fine with Shapton Glass stones. The deburring is difficult but much easier if strops on something like on jeans.

Since I noticed a lot of sharpeners using 2k grit over 1k-1500 grit... I wonder why lol.
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by ButlerHoosierChef »

I think it was just the knife and I didnt click. It was a Tanaka R2. I will also add in I love the Shapton glass 1k. It is my normal go to on top of the 2k when I am doing a full progression and I am feeling frisky and have time especially on lower HRC knives. When I am only doing half progression I like to use the Green Brick as starters cause it covers a large array even though it is only a 2k stone. I think alot of it has to do with the 2k stone is close enough to the 500 to not need the 1k per say and still get the job done quicker. Plus 2k is closer to the 4k and 6k stones rather than 1k obviously haha.
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by ChefKnivesToGo »

mlb1988 wrote: Tue Aug 07, 2018 9:12 pm
ChefKnivesToGo wrote: Mon Aug 06, 2018 6:28 pm Yes my typical stone progression is 500-2K-6K and the last stone I do light. A couple stropping strokes and that’s a good edge for a kitchen knife for me.
I am assuming you used Shapton Glass in that grits?
Yes
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by mlb1988 »

ButlerHoosierChef wrote: Mon Aug 06, 2018 11:45 pm If I need to reshape I use a 500 grit then 2k 6k 8k if I am feeling frisky. I rarely lose my toothyness and it is still hair popping sharp. Some steels take a little more work. Like white 2 that is the easiest I have found to sharpen and get scary sharp. Blue 1 steel definitely takes alot more work to get to the sharp stage and then still doesn't feel scary sharp until you pop the hairs right off of your arm. R2 can be a pain sometimes.
Is Blue the same as Aogami? I have always wondered about it
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by Jeff B »

mlb1988 wrote: Thu Aug 09, 2018 10:19 pm Is Blue the same as Aogami? I have always wondered about it
Yes. White is Shirogami...and folding paper is Origami. :D
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by mlb1988 »

Jeff B wrote: Thu Aug 09, 2018 10:58 pm
mlb1988 wrote: Thu Aug 09, 2018 10:19 pm Is Blue the same as Aogami? I have always wondered about it
Yes. White is Shirogami...and folding paper is Origami. :D
I noticed :lol: Only issue I have is that sometimes the knives mentioned things like Blue #1 or Blue #2, and some will say Aogami #1 or #2. Aren't they all the same? with different names? As in White, the Shirogami, which puts me off when some says Hatachi in some knives for White steels.
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by Cutuu »

mlb1988 wrote: Thu Aug 09, 2018 11:09 pm
Jeff B wrote: Thu Aug 09, 2018 10:58 pm
mlb1988 wrote: Thu Aug 09, 2018 10:19 pm Is Blue the same as Aogami? I have always wondered about it
Yes. White is Shirogami...and folding paper is Origami. :D
I noticed :lol: Only issue I have is that sometimes the knives mentioned things like Blue #1 or Blue #2, and some will say Aogami #1 or #2. Aren't they all the same? with different names? As in White, the Shirogami, which puts me off when some says Hatachi in some knives for White steels.
What you r thinking is right. It's just the English and Japanese words I believe.
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by ButlerHoosierChef »

Dats right! We here in Merica and we speakin Merican! But yes White is Shirogami and Blue is Aogami. Not to mention Aogami Super Silver 3 and all the other iterations.
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by Cutuu »

Merica!
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by jmcnelly85 »

Hitachi is a large company that makes specialty steels among numerous other products. Many steel producers put their name in the product, like crucible particle metallurgy calling steel cpm.

Hitachi (source) Shiro (color) gami (paper) 1 (flavor). Apparently the paper is due to the pieces coming wrapped in newspaper.
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by mlb1988 »

Cutuu wrote: Fri Aug 10, 2018 8:01 amMerica!
ButlerHoosierChef wrote: Fri Aug 10, 2018 4:14 am Dats right! We here in Merica and we speakin Merican! But yes White is Shirogami and Blue is Aogami. Not to mention Aogami Super Silver 3 and all the other iterations.
:lol: you guys
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by mlb1988 »

ButlerHoosierChef wrote: Tue Aug 07, 2018 9:41 pm I think it was just the knife and I didnt click. It was a Tanaka R2. I will also add in I love the Shapton glass 1k. It is my normal go to on top of the 2k when I am doing a full progression and I am feeling frisky and have time especially on lower HRC knives. When I am only doing half progression I like to use the Green Brick as starters cause it covers a large array even though it is only a 2k stone. I think alot of it has to do with the 2k stone is close enough to the 500 to not need the 1k per say and still get the job done quicker. Plus 2k is closer to the 4k and 6k stones rather than 1k obviously haha.
Speaking of Green Brick, how good does that do for wide varies of steels? Does it excel at being flexible and good on all steels or more towards stainless?
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by jmcnelly85 »

I use it on many different carbons and stainless steels regularly. Whites, blues, R2, AS, wusthof’s xmcrosomething, aebl, 52100, 440c and cpm154... I’ve never had a problem with it, but have never used it on some of the modern super vanadium steels.
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by Jeff B »

The Green Brick of...meh. I just don't get it. I've bought one on two different occasions trying to figure it out but I just don't get the hype, sold both of them. I figure it has to be me has because of the cult following it has. It's not a bad stone but give me a SP2k over the Brick anyday.
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by gladius »

Jeff B wrote: Sun Aug 12, 2018 3:36 pm The Green Brick of...meh. I just don't get it. I've bought one on two different occasions trying to figure it out but I just don't get the hype, sold both of them. I figure it has to be me has because of the cult following it has. It's not a bad stone but give me a SP2k over the Brick anyday.
---
I felt the same but have recently rediscovered it. The key is the type steel to use it on: softer Euro stainless steel <59 HRC - the edge it produces is very good.
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Re: Steels picky with specific grits.

Post by Jeff B »

gladius wrote: Sun Aug 12, 2018 3:55 pm
Jeff B wrote: Sun Aug 12, 2018 3:36 pm The Green Brick of...meh. I just don't get it. I've bought one on two different occasions trying to figure it out but I just don't get the hype, sold both of them. I figure it has to be me has because of the cult following it has. It's not a bad stone but give me a SP2k over the Brick anyday.
---
I felt the same but have recently rediscovered it. The key is the type steel to use it on: softer Euro stainless steel <59 HRC - the edge it produces is very good.
I agree, it does a good job on Euro stainless, but not any better than my SP2k. I have several Victorinox knives and my SP2k does as good or better job on them as the GB. As before, I'm not saying it's a bad stone, I just don't understand the mythical magnificence about the stone. To me it's just a BIG mediocre stone, a nice budget buy.
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