Handles for sale.
I pre-apologize for the photos - I am not the best photographer, and couple that with a crappy cell phone camera, and yeah....not the best. If someone wants a better photo, shoot me IG at delmar_pcberner or email to pcberner@gmail.com. [edit - had a few requests for additional photos, so added pics 2-4]
These are all constructed with dowel technique. If there is an end cap, I use forstner bit a bit of the way into the end cap so dowel can glue down through end cap. I leave about 3/8" on the top of the ferrule, so there is about 3/8" wood to get through until you get to the dowel. I slot the dowel to help with getting material out to fit tang. I use small (1.5mm) hole through top of tang centered to aid in finding slot in dowel and for drilling out for the tang. None of these are slotted for tang through ferrule except no. 4. If you want to send me a tracing of your tang, I can drill out for $10 more. Sorry, I don't fit on knives. Epoxy used is g-flex or T-88. All are finished with at least 3 coats danish oil.
Includes shipping to CONUS, in bubble lined, bubble wrapped, manila envelope. If you want more than one, let me know and we will work something out. Pricing is a product of how much stabilized wood is used and whether the labor to drill out for the tang has been done.
Length
End cap dimensions (to nearest 0.5mm)
Front of ferrule dimensions (to nearest 0.5mm)
Weight (not drilled for tang unless noted)
Ferrule wood, main wood, spacer/end cap wood. (S) means stabilized.
Any notes. I'm more critical of my work than anyone, so I don't hold back. WYSIWYG
1. $50
127mm
27x22
24x20
56g
Blue dyed redwood burl (S) / staplted tamarind (S) / ebony and ebony
Blue redwood burl is dark with danish oil. Have experimented after making this handle with mineral oil, bees wax and tru oil. Bees wax and tru oil were the lightest - you might sand off the danish oil and use one of those and the ferrule will pop more. The weight and lengthy of this handle scream nakiri or small cleaver to me. I love the look of spalted tamarind.
2. $45
134mm
28x23
24x20
54g
Spalted tamarind (S) / wenge / brazilian rosewood x 2
The spacer at the main / ferrule wasn't quite square, so it has a slight tilt to it. You might never notice. There are no gaps...just not perfectly square. I like using danish oil on wenge - it helps seal the open grain on wenge. There is still some open grain. You can file with super glue (CA). Pretty aggressive bevels on this knife towards ferrule - it started out with an idea for a octagonal / oval hybrid. Never sanded down for oval.
3. $45
135mm
23x21
21x18
52g
Red dyed redwood burl (S) / cocobolo / wenge
The center drill hole is a bit off-center on top of ferrule - might just get swallowed by tang drill out though. I designed this as a pair with #6, and was based off a custom handle I have that is fairly square in dimension at cap and ferrule top and not a ton of taper from front to end. The grain on the cocobolo ended up diagonal on this, and straight on #6, so I bailed on the thought. This one would be great for a thin knife like a longer petty or shorter suji. End cap is a bit long compared to #6, would need to be sanded down to match with #6, but didn't do since these may be used together. Cocobolo grain is wonderful looking. The red dyed redwood is pretty spectacular in person. Looks uber-cool. If you like a more subdued matte finish, leave it be with the danish oil. If you want it to pop more, sand off the danish oil and try tru oil. See note on #2 about wenge grain.
4. $50
137mm
26.5x22.5
24x19.5
56g
light dyed maple burl (S) / blackwood / ebony (no end cap)
The tang slot is drilled, about 4mm x 10-12mm. The grain on the blackwood is just awesome, with med/dark brown main, black rays and light brown (almost white) rays. The burl is a great accent. Subtle but with a good amount of variance. Not a flashy handle. Understated but a looker in its own right. Would look great on a more flashy blade, like pronounced damascus or hammered/Tschamine. Could handle a heavier blade with the weight on it, might balance out.
5. $45
138.5mm
28x23
24x20
Wenge / brazilian rosewood / marblewood x 2
Ok, when I first saw the marblewood, I thought it would be too flashy for handles. Well, I was wrong. At least with spacers and end caps. Might be too much for ferrules and mains, but I ended up really liking the look. Might be the oiliest wood I have ever worked with. Super waxy feel. Any way, as with #2, spacer isn't quite square with main and ferrule. No gaps. See note on no. 2 about wenge grain.
6. $45
143mm
29x22
23.5x19.5
74g
Red dyed redwood burl (S) / cocobolo / wenge x 2
See comments re: no. 3. This is a large handle for sure - I designed this thinking of a 270mm gyuto. A heavier/beastly handle to match a big 'ol cow slayer (look up the translation for gyuto if you don't get that reference). Cocobolo ended up with straight grain, which really adds a linear movement to the handle, pointing towards the spine of the blade. The grain has everything from light red/orange to black in it. Wenge accents match it well. The burl had a void at the top of the ferrule, near where the tang slot would be. Not sure it would be swallowed up by the tang slot, so I added some of the saw dust from sanding the red burl, added to epoxy, and filled the hole. It's a *bit* darker than the redwood, but not by much. The red dyed redwood is pretty spectacular in person. Looks uber-cool. If you like a more subdued matte finish, leave it be with the danish oil. If you want it to pop more, sand off the danish oil and try tru oil. See Note on no. 2 re: wenge grain.
Handles for sale - SOLD
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Re: Handles for sale - SOLD
I picked up some spalted tamarind for handles. Any thoughts on if it needs stabilizing?
[edit]
Just noticed the (S) by the tamarind, that answers my question
[edit]
Just noticed the (S) by the tamarind, that answers my question
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Re: Handles for sale - SOLD
A general rule of thumb I follow - if i can find a wood stabilized, I only use it stabilized.
Spalted tamarind is among the less expensive stabilized woods.