Show us your new handle

[Kalaeb]

Not a handle, but a new saya. This is my first time making a three piece...much easier than carving out a cavity.

[Drewski]

Not a handle, but a new saya. This is my first time making a three piece...much easier than carving out a cavity.

Gorgeous!

[Bensbites]

Not a handle, but a new saya. This is my first time making a three piece...much easier than carving out a cavity.

Nice.

[pd7077]

Not a handle, but a new saya. This is my first time making a three piece...much easier than carving out a cavity.

More pics please!!!! The saya looks great!

[Carter]

Nice job Matt.

[Jeff B]

Top notch as always Matt!

[Delboy]

Not a handle, but a new saya. This is my first time making a three piece...much easier than carving out a cavity.

By 3 piece, do you mean that you basically made a wooden welt? Interesting, I was going to try my hand at one, but I was going to try to use a router. Maybe this is a better way for me!

[delmar]

3 piece waaaaay easier than carve out. You can also sand down the inside piece on the edge run a bit to make it more 'form fitting'

[Kalaeb]

Not a handle, but a new saya. This is my first time making a three piece...much easier than carving out a cavity.

By 3 piece, do you mean that you basically made a wooden welt? Interesting, I was going to try my hand at one, but I was going to try to use a router. Maybe this is a better way for me!

Yes, similar to a wooden welt. I cut out a thin middle piece then sanded it down to allow for the distal taper of the blade the sandwiched between two more pieces and shaped.

Getting the distal taper perfect with a router is slightly more difficult. On a two piece I will usually either router with steps to account for distal taper, or use a paddle sander on my Dremel and just hog it out.

[Carter]

A hand plane is the best way to cut and taper the "welt". In most cases, there will be a distal taper and a thicker edge for the spine and thinner for the edge. Sand paper can leave some nasty grit that can potentially scratch a blade....been there done that.

[Kalaeb]

A hand plane is the best way to cut and taper the "welt". In most cases, there will be a distal taper and a thicker edge for the spine and thinner for the edge. Sand paper can leave some nasty grit that can potentially scratch a blade....been there done that.

Excellent point. And I really dig that chisel on the left. Did you make it, or purchase?

[Delboy]

A hand plane is the best way to cut and taper the "welt". In most cases, there will be a distal taper and a thicker edge for the spine and thinner for the edge. Sand paper can leave some nasty grit that can potentially scratch a blade....been there done that.

Excellent point. And I really dig that chisel on the left. Did you make it, or purchase?

I was going to mention that chisel too, pretty cool.

[Delboy]

Not a handle, but a new saya. This is my first time making a three piece...much easier than carving out a cavity.

By 3 piece, do you mean that you basically made a wooden welt? Interesting, I was going to try my hand at one, but I was going to try to use a router. Maybe this is a better way for me!

Yes, similar to a wooden welt. I cut out a thin middle piece then sanded it down to allow for the distal taper of the blade the sandwiched between two more pieces and shaped.

Getting the distal taper perfect with a router is slightly more difficult. On a two piece I will usually either router with steps to account for distal taper, or use a paddle sander on my Dremel and just hog it out.

That sounds cool! I made a saya as a little project for a paring knife (out of 2 olive wood coasters)....It was fun, but distal taper didn't even register in my mind! I never even thought that, especially for larger knives, distal taper would be a factor. Damn, saya making just got exponentially harder for me, lol.

[Carter]

It is a saya nomi, specifically made for carving sayas...quicker, cleaner, and more zen like than a router. Link: https://www.woodcraft.com/search?q=5%2F ... ton=search

A few more action shots:

[Delboy]

A chisel specifically made for saya making. The Japanese have particularness (yes, I just made up a word, sue me) down to an art! Or science. Or both. For such a nice, expensive tool, you'd think they'd have more pictures, lol. Does yours actually have pliability to it, Carter? It says on the website that it has some flex in the blade.

[Carter]

A chisel specifically made for saya making. The Japanese have particularness (yes, I just made up a word, sue me) down to an art! Or science. Or both. For such a nice, expensive tool, you'd think they'd have more pictures, lol. Does yours actually have pliability to it, Carter? It says on the website that it has some flex in the blade.

It does have some flex, not much, but you can easily control it. It is a two handed chisel, one on the handle and another on the shank to guide it. Would buy again in a minute. Don't save money and get the 3/8", it is not wide enough for a primary saya nomi.

[Jeff B]

Finally had a handle put on my Jikko B2 Suminagashi. Handle by Joe Morrone(jobone). Spalted Maple and Gabon Ebony.
His pictures are much better than mine! --> https://www.instagram.com/p/BzjVFFSHH2i/

[Altadan]

Wow!
What a looker, and what nice shoes she's wearing! Very nice indeed!

[jobone]

Two thumbs up

[Drewski]

Finally had a handle put on my Jikko B2 Suminagashi. Handle by Joe Morrone(jobone). Spalted Maple and Gabon Ebony.
His pictures are much better than mine! --> https://www.instagram.com/p/BzjVFFSHH2i/

Any guess / measurement on how the weight of the new handle compares to the old? How's it change the enkoyabiliry of the knife? I've got a 270 ks that I want to rehandle. Thinking about how I should approach that.