What is the difference between the 80 and 140 grit diamond plates?

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What is the difference between the 80 and 140 grit diamond plates?

Post by ChefKnivesToGo »

I know it'll have larger pieces but in terms of the purpose/use-case of an 80 vs. 140, what are the highlights? Does it depends what stone it's being used on?
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Re: What is the difference between the 80 and 140 grit diamond plates?

Post by ChefKnivesToGo »

Hi Adam,

I encourage you to ask questions on our forum. I'm swamped with emails right now.

The answer is the 80 grit is faster and will sharpen more quickly. Especially with lower grit stones that tend to need a lower grit plate. Both the 140 and the 80 make quick work flattening stones. I don't recommend you use the 80 for doing knife repair work until it wears down a bit. I do it but it takes metal off fast.
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Re: What is the difference between the 80 and 140 grit diamond plates?

Post by Cigarguy »

140 is a good grit for redoing edges, doing major repair work and flattening. 220 grit will also work fine for this purpose.

Lower grit stones make quick work when major metal needs to be removed. However I don't use it for sharpening all the time. Once a knife is sharp I typically don't allow it to get blunt dull. So, typically, sharpening consists of 400, 800/1000, and 3000. Most of the time all that is required is 1000 and 3000. Few knives require 220 and fewer yet gets 8000.

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Re: What is the difference between the 80 and 140 grit diamond plates?

Post by lsboogy »

ChefKnivesToGo wrote:
Tue May 19, 2020 10:59 am
I know it'll have larger pieces but in terms of the purpose/use-case of an 80 vs. 140, what are the highlights? Does it depends what stone it's being used on?
I'm just beginning to use very coarse stones (took me a while to figure I had to load my 60 grit stone before it would work - too much time spent trying to keep water on it - just needed to use it until it got a bit clogged - now it's a go to for bigger chips) - I hav a 220 as my next coarsest stone, and that is very easy to use, and just plain works - both Nubatama stones that I like very much. If you anticipate needing to work lots of knives (I am starting to get a clientel that means I sharpen 8-12 a week) then get the coarser stone. If you are a home sharpener, the 140 will be fine - it just takea a bit longer, but you can jump to a 600/800 grit pretty easily. I go from 220 to 1K/1200 and find no problem, just takes a bit to get the edge started. I did 4 Shun knives (VG10) this morning with 1mm chips - took the 60 grit about 5 minutes each to get the chip out and keep profile, the 220 brought them to be ready for the 1200, and then they all got a trip to the 6K and strop. They will be ready to back to owner this weekend along with the others - I would guess a 140 stone would take me 10 minutes to get the chips out properly, but you need to figure out what you are sharpening (you own knives and what steel) and how much time you are willing to spend on them. If your time is precious and you sharpen many knives a week, spending $1000 on good stones is cheap, but if you are someone who sharpens a couple times a year, I would get the 140

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Re: What is the difference between the 80 and 140 grit diamond plates?

Post by d_rap »

I have the CKTG 140 and the Atoma 140, and in my experience both are plenty aggressive even for things such as occasional chip repair. Really for most jobs on fairly dull knives, I start with my 220 or even a 400.

Both my 140s flatten everything very effectively; no reason in my opinion to go coarser. If you plan to do repair work at the level Isboogy is describing, sure, you may want the coarser plate. But for most ordinary purposes the 140 is going to get the job done--and in many cases it will be overkill.
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Re: What is the difference between the 80 and 140 grit diamond plates?

Post by ken123 »

I flatten a LOT of stones.Some days over 100 stones because I also cut stones for custom applications.
I consider the 140 or 150 grit plates a critical component for sharpeners. For razor honing only you can get by with a 400.
These plates start out aggressive but dull with use. They dull or damage more quickly doing tip repairs or tasks where you apply a lot of force to a narrow spot in the plate. You also get a rougher finish on a 150 plate than on a 150 stone.
Coarser plates and stones are time savers. You do run the risk of producing deeper scratches with them. Even the 150 plates can leave deep scratches on single bevel knives. A perfect reason to use a 180 stone instead.
If you sharpen a lot of knives - yours and others, you get the 'knives from hell' and this is where coarse stones and plates come in.
In a home environment use your 150 plate. In a heavy use or pro environment get coarse stones and plates or waste time using finer equipment. Judgement is required to pick good choices.
---
Ken

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