Handle Install Advice

[Jeff B]

This may be absolutely silly, but I thought about the expanding insulation foam since it hardens, has glue-like properties and is expanding.
Little shot through the needle straw and you're done.
I dunno, maybe.

I agree with the "absolutely silly" part. That stuff would have the potential to make an absolute mess. Anything it touched would be very hard to clean up. It expands so much and for so long it would be hard to keep the handle in place while this is going on. From my experience using this stuff it just sounds like a disaster waiting to happen for this use.

[Bensbites]

They also make hot glue pellets now that are kinda like rice or couscous grain sized that may work for hot gluing handles. I got a bag, but havent tried them yet.

This may be absolutely silly, but I thought about the expanding insulation foam since it hardens, has glue-like properties and is expanding.
Little shot through the needle straw and you're done.
I dunno, maybe.

Hot melt glue has a couple benefits, easy cleanup, quick solidification. Easy removal and a very very high hold until 180F. I bet the insulation would hold. I suspect the install and cleanup would be far more difficult.

[Kerneldrop]

I'll try the Hot Glue. I have a hot air station, heat gun and flame torches...so i can get it done.
I have beeswax as well.
I was trying to think of a way to not use heat and not use a substance that has a permanent bond like Marine Tex and Devcon.
But if the pros use hot glue, then so should I.

[Bensbites]

I have used beeswax before hot glue. It's far more tricky to get a good install.

[Jeff B]

I'll try the Hot Glue. I have a hot air station, heat gun and flame torches...so i can get it done.
I have beeswax as well.
I was trying to think of a way to not use heat...

Your not going to get the knife near hot enough to damage the heat treat if that's a concern.

[Kerneldrop]

Your not going to get the knife near hot enough to damage the heat treat if that's a concern.

I guess that was my concern...I figured a no heat solution was good and i was trying to think of a way to fill all the space with a solid-like adhesive, but I've changed courses and will just use hot glue and my hot air station.
There's no reason for me to recreate a wheel that doesn't roll as well.
I'd be hesitant to try stuff recommended on FB or Reddit....but here the knowledge and experience is great and can be trusted, and methods used by y'all are most likely the best options.

[salemj]

Your not going to get the knife near hot enough to damage the heat treat if that's a concern.

I guess that was my concern...I figured a no heat solution was good and i was trying to think of a way to fill all the space with a solid-like adhesive, but I've changed courses and will just use hot glue and my hot air station.
There's no reason for me to recreate a wheel that doesn't roll as well.
I'd be hesitant to try stuff recommended on FB or Reddit....but here the knowledge and experience is great and can be trusted, and methods used by y'all are most likely the best options.

This may seem obvious, but I think it is always best to state the obvious on forums as such: Above you'll see a good recommendation by Bensbites, which is just to hold the knife somewhat near the tang while you heat it. If it gets too hot to hold (including with some thinner gloves on), you're probably using more heat than you need assuming you are heating from the back tip of the tang. The glue needs less than 180 degrees to melt. Damage to the heat-treat at the edge is WAY above this threadhold (at minimum from what I remember, closer to 425+ degrees, and that would be at the edge, not the spine). What you don't want to do is to wear so much safety gear that you cannot tell how hot things are getting. Most most thinner garden gloves or work gloves or the like will let you feel the heat as intense around 150+ degrees without burning. Be safe, but also remember that part of safety is control.