Chefknivestogo Forums

They are also available in 1x4, 2x6, 2x8, and 4 different radii in Edge Pro format for recurve knives. I have also developed oil-based emulsions just for them with diamond, aluminum oxide, and silicon carbide abrasives. The page for the flat strops is https://cgsw.us/product/hard-strop/

I got that same knife as a gift for a friend and finally got it back to sharpen after 3 years. It is a very nice blade and I found the bevel angles amazingly even along the full length and comparing both sides. I got it because it is HAP40 which holds an edge very well, for a kitchen knife.

Cutting them with a tile saw is easy enough but then you will need to grind them flat and to an even thickness. The tile saw will not cut a flat surface and the best I could get was parallel cuts within .02"-.03" over 4.6" even though I did lots of these parts a year and they were onl...

There is a chart like this that was created and is updated by Mr. Wizard on BladeForums and is posted at the top of the Maintenance, Tinkering, and Embellishment section, which does have the current EP stones listed. These charts only list the grit of the stones, not the bond and its hardness. The b...

I use demineralized water to make my stropping compounds. None of the diamonds float, they all sink so you need to shake the bottle before dispersing. You want 1 gram of abrasive per oz of water at the most, remember less is more when stropping. I have made my own from 40 microns to .1 and have seen...

I used to think anything past the 8k was going backwards with them but last week I played with them again and had better results. So the 16k and 30k I have access to do leave a finer finish on the right steel. Still, I think the 8k is the finest stone in that line I would use before going to a strop...

How to sharpen it really depends on the ceramic, it's not like all steel sharpens the same either. White Kyocera is far easier than the black but by far the cheapest and safest way is with diamond loaded leather, which is also the only medium I found that would sharpen the black ceramic without micr...

Hands down I would say polyethylene plastic and doubt anything is easier on your knife edges. My experience is more from machining and this plastic is by far the least abrasive on tools. I have no experience with the rubber cutting boards spoken of here but the rubbers I have experience with are pre...

My guess is neither, unless I am wrong about your sharpener. As said we need more info on the sharpener to comment.

I have two ceramic knives, a Kyocera white paring and a Kyocera black nakiri. The white ceramic will microchip a little with gentle use and is fairly easy to sharpen, the black looks good after a year of use but I haven't put it under the microscope yet, and is easily the hardest material I have eve...

I find wood in general is very abrasive and dulls cutting tools quickly. Polyethylene probably has the least wear on cutting tools of the materials I have machined. I figure this translates well to cutting surfaces for knives.

I have sharpened many scissors with the EP scissor attachment, and find zero problems with doing so. Since everything is clamped down there is no unwanted movement so your angles are nice and consistent. I have sharpened 1-1/4" to 6" scissors with it and like all edges that come off my EP ...

Was it wet with straight water or is there more to it? I am wondering what came out of the stone.

Compound bevels and micro-bevels definitely have a place. I am referring to neither. I have noticed that coarse stones tear/crumble the apex off leaving a blunt intersection between the two bevels, at least with harder steels. With this in mind, I don't worry about refining the apex until my last s...

My short answer is it sounds like your not maintaining your angle, as in the knife is moving a bit while sharpening, it doesn't take much movement to cause inconsistencies. Your hand gently guides the knife, the stone holds it to the table. This is what I like about using magnets, they generally hel...