Oil for Carbon Blades and Handles

[Airik]

As far as full carbon blades, I’ve read that mineral oil is best, but I’ve seen some people say they use vegetable oil. Would vegetable or canola oil harm the blade in any way?

For handles, would vegetable or canola be a bad idea?

[XexoX]

As far as full carbon blades, I’ve read that mineral oil is best, but I’ve seen some people say they use vegetable oil. Would vegetable or canola oil harm the blade in any way?

For handles, would vegetable or canola be a bad idea?

Tsubaki Camellia Oil is suppose to be good for Carbon knives. Not sure about the handles. I use a butcher block oil on the handles.

Vegetable and canola oils will go rancid, so it's best not to use them on handles.

[Renvers]

For handles, would vegetable or canola be a bad idea?

Vegetable and canola oils will go rancid, so it's best not to use them on handles.

This very grossly happened to me a few years ago...

[XexoX]

For handles, would vegetable or canola be a bad idea?

Vegetable and canola oils will go rancid, so it's best not to use them on handles.

This very grossly happened to me a few years ago...

Oh, I smell your pain!

[XexoX]

... For handles, would vegetable or canola be a bad idea?

You might also want to read this old thread on how to care for knife handles.

[TheLegalRazor]

Mineral oil works well for the blades and handles.

[Robstreperous]

If the handle is done with stabilized wood I don’t believe it should require oil (I’ll happily stand corrected if I’m wrong though).

My only rule for oil on a blade is it should be labeled safe for food preparation. Camela oil’s my go to not that I need it that frequently.

[ken123]

I use mineral oil. If you want something a bit more long lasting, add beeswax. Remix this with a double boiler or a microwave if you don't mind flames and explosions :)You can get mineral oil in the laxative section of your favorite drug store

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Ken

[XexoX]

... microwave if you don't mind flames and explosions ...

---
Ken

Thanks! I needed a laugh today.

[Radar53]

Sorry but I'm a bit late to this. I use camelia oil on blades that need it and 100% pure tung oil on my handles and boards.

[False Cast]

Mineral oil from the drug store. Cheap and food safe. One bottle will last a long time! I put mine in small squeeze bottles. I use it on my carbon hunting knives as well; where a rainy hunt can lead to a rusty knife surprisingly quickly!

[taz575]

Mineral oil is great for wood cutting boards too! I put several coats on all side and let them soak in and then do a beeswax/oil mixture as the final coating on them.

Mineral oil on the blades, pure Tung Oil on wood handles, including stabilized ones. Tru Oil also work well and has more shine to it (thicker, glossier finish), but takes much longer to apply.

[Kalaeb]

If the handle is done with stabilized wood I don’t believe it should require oil (I’ll happily stand corrected if I’m wrong though).

My only rule for oil on a blade is it should be labeled safe for food preparation. Camela oil’s my go to not that I need it that frequently.

Hypothetically because the stabilized wood has been impregnated with resin/polymers etc this seems logical, but I have never found it to be the place in reality. My stabilized woods still have a tendency to move, although less so than non-stabilized. I still hit mine every so often with a coat of oil and they all seem to absorb. In addition, if using Tru-Oil or shellac or similar it helps restore that new handle shine.

[Calcifer1]

Has anyone used a mineral oil and bees wax mixture?

[Kalaeb]

This is a good view:

https://youtu.be/sqnUs3k18jg

[d_rap]

This is a good view:

https://youtu.be/sqnUs3k18jg

Mark's board treatment is a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil and I use it on handles, stabilized and unstabilized, and wooden utensils. And like Kalaeb, I also find that stabilized wood still absorbs some oil, so why not?

But this video, although it takes a few minutes to cut to the chase, makes a really good economical point. The basic pitch, and posters above have basically said the same thing, is food grade mineral oil does almost everything we are discussing in this thread perfectly adequately. I just bought a gallon for crazy cheap a couple of months ago.

[Captaincaed]

Camellia is great. It sets a bit over long time periods, helps protect those blades that don't get used as often, but make take some hot water to remove

[stewssy]

I use camellia oil if I remember to lol

[Dzieke]

Where I live in New Mexico, it is so dry (humidity in my house right now is 12%), I worry more about wood handles and cutting boards drying out, rather than be concerned about carbon blades rusting.

[ColonelJLloyd]

At this point I don't have carbon blades that go for long without being used so I've found no reason to oil blades. The fact that all of them have had kurouchi finish may be a factor as well.

When I oil my board (generic mineral oil after emptying a big bottle of Mystery Oil) I also rub my wooden spoons/spatulas and other utensil handles. On occasion I will treat it all with board cream (mineral oil + beeswax).